The first thing that we have to do before doing some mods activity is to find out who is where, why, and doing what. We can easily exclude when and how 😉
First, we need a AVO Meter. Any brand will do, as mostly we are testing for continuity only. Mostly, it will produce a ‘beep’ sound if it detects conductivity. Any cheap meter will do, started from $5. But I prefer a good tool, so I use my Sanwa PC510.
Second, you will need a schematic of some vital components (like opamp, DAC chip, etc). Off course you can easily view with your laptop or PC or even print them. But I believe most of us should have a smartphone with data connection. So checking them online with your smartphone (without printing them) would become a very handy task.
Last but not least, you will need a multi color writing pen and some papers. Draw some basic layout, like DAC chips, some opamps, capacitors, etc there.
If your circuit has some removable chips (with socket), then it’s good to remove them first. It’s gonna be easier to trace without the chips plugged in.
Off course I assume that you will have some basic understanding of opamp, power supply layout, and some basic electronic arrangement. Otherwise, this process will become a nightmare than a fruitful result 😉
What we are looking for is to find whether the capacitor is related with power supply or coupling. As surely different purpose should have different capacitor (at least from my perspective). And by understanding who is doing what, we can find a right component for the right job. This is where the continuity test of the multitester will play an important job. It might take several hours to trace, but most of the time, when you have enough experience, you should be able to guess who is where and what it’s doing. This process merely only to confirm your guessing 😉
Actually if the PCB is single or double layer, you can easily use a high power light source to see through the PCB from the other side. I would rather call this a ‘poor man’s xray’.
Slightly out of the topic, this ASUS Xonar Essence One uses Nichicon ‘Audio KT’ capacitor.
Not a bad capacitor, but surely not the best (and not my type).
WIMA also found around. Again, not my favorite but I think it’s gonna be tough to find substitute capacitor with current space and layout.
Two BurrBrown PCM1795 (one shown on picture below for one channel) should fit the D/A function nicely on this level.
AKM AK4113 as digital receiver. Also should be a nice complementary for PCM1795.
Tracing the power supply PCB is relatively easy as it has 3 lines, with capacitor on each line. Logically we can easily guess how does it work before even powering up the AVO Meter. I think it’s a good start to bring confidence before moving into more complex part: the audio board PCB.
If you have this ASUS Xonar Essence One and you plan to modify it, then I would encourage you to start tracing the power supply PCB first. It would be a nice learning session and good start to adept playing with such black thick PCB (where your poor man’s xray technique won’t work). Once you have enough confidence, then the next part is the audio board PCB which is quite challenging (I would rate it as medium level complexity). Be careful when de-soldering the component. Although the PCB is good one, but the holes are quite small and surely through-hole type. So it might trouble us when we plan to change with a new component with bigger lead diameter.
Agus
April 1, 2013 12:32Siang ko,
Kalau pengalaman saya sih harus pakai electronic solder sucker yang bisa buat lead free tin, gampang banget, terutama buat capacitor yg radial. Kalau pakai solder sucker yang manual sama solder wick susah banget… suka keangkat trough hole nya….
Tapi saya percaya kalo ko Jimmy tangannya jago banget, pake solder wick aja bisa kayanya.. hehehe.. 😀 Ditunggu kelanjutannya ko
Salam 🙂
Auw Jimmy
April 1, 2013 12:51Hi Bro Agus,
Saya sih pake solder sucker dan soldering iron saja.
Dulu pernah pake solder wick tapi tidak pernah berhasil. Mungkin karena skill-nya pas2an.
Thanks.
Timothy Hoang
April 13, 2013 03:06Jimmy.
You should do a mod to change out the B10K Potentiometer.
There is channel imbalance issue on both the Speaker and Headphone Knob.
The Speaker one has it pretty bad, the headphones, not so much.
As for the Purple Sanyo Solid/Organic Capacitor, i replaced that one to Nichicom FP on my Essence One. Same capacitor Schiit uses, it is far more superior.
Best Regards,
Timothy
Artemis Cables
Auw Jimmy
April 13, 2013 12:03Hi Timothy,
I do not experience any channel imbalance both on speaker and headphone. I test on several system with several friends. I believe if there is any imbalance on mine, we should have noticed it.
I plan to use 49720 and/or AD825 on output. 49710 will bring some pain with such small place. So they are out of my option.
Anyway, I have several option, like DACT or Grayhill to jump in if in case I find such issue. I never like that green Alps anyway 😉
May I know what is the reason to replace that organic caps with Nichicon? What is the purpose of that capacitor? Havent traced mine.
Thanks.
Timothy Hoang
April 13, 2013 15:50LME49710HA sounded smoother.
It has less bias, distortion, and crosstalk.
May be a little bright to some people though, but with the pairing of the MUSE01’s in I/V, they do great.
Let me know what you end up deciding for your Buffer stages. I’m thinking of going with OPA827 or AD825.
I would of loved to use AD797BRZ but they occilliate on pretty much EVERYSOCKET (I/V, LFP, and Buffer) even with film capacitor soldered on.
Me along with a bunch of others on Head-Fi has experienced this sound imbalanced issue on our speakers. I would love to switch to DACT, Grayhill, or Japanese Alps too but the B10K potentiometer has an overload of pins, and i have no idea how to hook them up.
Removing the pins without a heat gun would also be hard.
I haven’t traced mine neither.
Just upgraded the parts because i was buying something from from Mouser anyway.
So far I’ve done the current upgrades:
WIMA CAP:
2200pF 5% 100V (FKP) > 2200pF 2.5% 100V (FKP)
0.022uF 10% 100V (FKS) > 0.022uF 2.5% 100V (FKP)
8200pF 10% 100V (FKS) > 8200pF 2.5% 630V (FKP)
1800pF 5% 100V (FKP) > 1800pF 2.5% 100V (FKP)
Sanyo > Nichicon FP
Elna Silmic II 220uF 35V for XLR & RCA Capacitors
Silver Plated FC-12P Cable underneath PCB
Silver Plated PCI-E Power Cable over PCB
MUSES01 x 6 for I/V Sockets
49710HA on Adapters for Headphone, RCA, and XLR Buffers.
Nichicon KT > Nichicon KA
Added Extra Heatsinks to Power Circuit
Change blue led’s to less bright red 3mm flat tops. SMD is also changed to red.
Bit-perfect’s 3mm led changed to white. (flat top)
Changed out thermal paste to Prolimatech PK-3 for the mosfets and underneath the main heatsink.
Resoldered everything with Mundorf Supreme 9.5% Silver Solder.
Just some minor upgrades.
I’m curious to what you’re going to be doing, as it might present higher sound improvement.
I could not replace Nichicon KT with Elna Silmic II due to limited space.
I ended up with Nichicon KA, but 50V instead of the stock 25V (or 35V, can’t recall).
If you know how to replace the green alps and can tell me, that would make my day AWESOME!
Auw Jimmy
April 13, 2013 16:56Hi Tim,
Surely 49710 should be better on some aspect, as it’s single opamp.
The Alps (my guessing) is a standard connection. Only I think it has to control the balance side also. That’s why we are seeing 4 gangs type, instead of 2 gangs like regular potentiometer. I dont think you will have problem if you want to change, just you will need a balance or 4 gangs type.
Anyway, you could use smaller size and voltage. I think 16V should be enough for opamp side (as only 12V there), while for the DAC only need 5V (6.3V OsCon would be nice). On some areas, 220uF is overkill. Putting 100uF wont be a problem.
You have done a very good and serious mod. Congratulation! My mods is just for fun. I do hope I have enough time and spirit to finish it 😉
Thanks.
Timothy Hoang
April 14, 2013 05:08Thanks so much Jimmy!
I’ll look into a balanced/4 gangs type potentiometer to switch out the current one.
Hopefully that will get rid of my imbalance issue.
You’re saying i can use smaller voltage/size electrolytic capacitors?
Stock capacitors are rated at 35V.
Do you think i can replace the Nichicon KA/KT with Elna Silmic II rated at 25V?
I didn’t do this before, because size was limited and i didn’t think it was a good idea to go under specification (voltage wise) but after having the larger Nichicon KA’s 50V in, i feel as if i can squeeze in the Elna Silmic II’s.
35V is hard to obtain because i would have to buy them from PartsConnexion, and they might end up being wider.
Which upgrades have you thought about doing so far?
Timothy Hoang
April 14, 2013 05:17Which 5V on the DAC side are you talking about?
Sorry to be such a bother with so many questions.
Just trying to get my Essence One to be top notch.
Since you’re doing mods, might as well hop on the same train as you to see what else i can squeeze from my unit.
Auw Jimmy
April 14, 2013 06:20Hi Tim,
I havent checked the detail, so those 4gangs is purely my assumption. Please check and compare before you replace them.
The voltage only +5, -12, and +12V. So yes, I think even 16V caps will do though sometime higher voltage caps would sound better. But please make sure you know and test before you do. I will not put any responsibility on it.
The BurrBrown DAC uses +5VDC voltage only.
Thsnks.
Timothy Hoang
April 14, 2013 07:09Forget it haha.
Too much work just for a small benefactor from evening out the channels, i’ll just leave the old Alps.
I’m going to keep 35V rating just in case.
Not sure if i’ll hear any sound differences going from Nichicon KT to KA to Elna Silmic II’s.
Where would you have put that 6.3V OsCon at?
I don’t see any caps near the DAC except for those surface mounts.
Auw Jimmy
April 14, 2013 07:54Hi Tim,
The upgrade from the Green Alps to, let’s say DACT is very significant. Not only about the channel balance.
If you can’t hear the different sound of capacitor, then I will be very curious why did you change the cable to silver and apply the Mundorf Solder 🙂
I believe there are several capacitors around the DAC…
Thanks.
Timothy Hoang
April 14, 2013 13:26Hello Jimmy,
Hopefully you can elaborate a little on the significance in a potentiometer change, in this case, the DACT.
I hear a difference in sound, but barely.
Maybe it due to the Nichicon KA not being all that good for audio use. Looking 100% like the KT aesthetically, that was probably what turned me off and gave me a bias to hate it.
Oh, you’re talking about those smaller electrolyics. Didn’t think it was even possible to replace them with OScons.
You are so knowledgeable!
Can’t wait to see all of your mods!
So excited to try them myself! 😀
Auw Jimmy
April 14, 2013 13:56Hi Tim,
Basically a potentiometer is a resistance (resistor) to attenuate the signal. That’s why you can adjust the volume because it gives resistance there. Any component in series like this potentiometer surely alter the signal. So for the sake of simplicity, poor potentiometer will impact the sound significantly. I never like those Green Alps, but off course you might have different opinion.
Just be careful with the voltage. We can always reduce the capacitance (except for very critical feedback position), but be very careful with the voltage. But I dont really see the needs of 35V as the highest voltage on the circuit should not exceed 12VDC.
Thanks.
Timothy Hoang
April 14, 2013 14:36Hi Jim!
Yes, i’m aware of the resistance, but your explanation has given me further insight into how they can ultimately affect sound quality.
It is most appreciative.
Thank You for the Voltage feedback.
Since Elna Silmic II 25V & 35V have the same diameter, i’m most likely forced to go with 16V.
I’ll turn up the unit and measure each voltage crossing the capacitors to make sure that none exceeds 12VDC.
Will do more research on how to replace these green alps, but looks like if i don’t get someone nearly the same, i would end up needing a new knob.
Good Night matey!
Auw Jimmy
April 14, 2013 16:39Hi Tim,
Good luck, mate! Let me know your findings later!
Thanks.
Sheldor
September 6, 2013 12:34Hello,
Do you have made the analogue stage schematic ?
Thanks
Auw Jimmy
September 6, 2013 14:57Hi Sheldor,
I see no point of doing that…
Thanks.
gadut
August 31, 2014 10:52wah ngiler ama sanwa nya, dulu pas beli dmm belum ngerti ama true rms jadinya ngambil sanwa pc500, padahal beda dikit harganya :hammer
ada saran ga om untuk true rms kira2 dmm yg price/value nya top markotop. sanwa pc510 or fluke 115? pengen nya sih fluke 87V tapi kemahalan hehe
thanks
Auw Jimmy
September 9, 2014 13:44Hi Pak Anshari,
Tinggal masalah selera saja. Sanwa, Fluke, barang bagus.
Terima kasih.