In the middle of the night, after finishing my tube rectifier dual socket modification, I prepare some tube rectifier to test the new socket. I think it’s gonna be nice to evaluate the sonic of some rectifiers to 😉
Actually, I have known the winner, although I haven’t compared them one by one on same setup – like this time.
Let’s start with Telefunken RGN 1054 Mesh, the basic or entry level tube rectifier from Telefunken. With the price around US$ 100 or less, this tube is just fine to let you know the special of RGN families. It sounds musical, crisp, and detail. The vocal is nice, although slightly thin. The Mesh Anode version is better in terms of transparency and musicality than the Solid Anode one.
Let’s continue with his bigger brother, Telefunken RGN 2004 Mesh. This one could produce higher current (you can see the red triangle is doubled compared to the 1054). With the current cost nearly US$ 400, the RGN 2004 Mesh provides enough jump in terms of sound quality compared to the RGN 1054. RGN 2004 sounds even more musical, even sweeter vocal, very improved staging (depth/width), and impressive music separation. Don’t forget to mention the excellent details also. This is the rectifier that makes me enjoy the vocal of Stacey Kent and want to repeat it again and again.
Below is the Valvo G1064. The 1064 has similar specification with 1054, but I think the 1064 is newer. Instead of using the RGN prefix, Valvo uses the G prefix. So we are talking the same between RGN 1064 or G1064. When comparing with Telefunken, this Valvo sounds a little bit thicker in vocal, slightly less details, but still on the level of “more than enough”. They are very good as entry level tube rectifier, especially for you who want to “try” the RGN series.
The Solid Anode version of Valvo G1064. Less detail and less transparency. But at fraction of the cost compared with the Mesh version, this is quite nice as a spare tube rectifier.
Below is el-cheapo Russian Rectifier 5U4C. You can get it less than US$ 10 each, probably around US$ 5. At this cost, you can’t expect more, but this tube has good tonal balance. Not to thin vocal, adequate detail, and solid bass. Also this is a rock solid rectifier. Ever push it around 2A for several minutes (due to my stupidity putting 100R bleeder instead of 100K), but this tube still last until now. Really a nice tube rectifier for most of common usage.
Another Russian Rectifier, but this one is not really known due to its rarity. It has B4 socket, 4 Volts filament, and over 2A filament current. Probably around 100-150 mA Anode current, but seeing the 6 red triangles, I assume it may have current capacity over 200 mA (so probably on the level of 5U4/5AR4 series). As common Solid Anode rectifier, this tube rectifier doesn’t give impressive detail, but overall the tonal balance is very good and better compared to other Russian Rectifier which I’ve tested.
All these rectifier tubes are tested on my Aikido pre-amp, powered with oversize customer power transformer, VCap-Jensen4pole-ASC (choke loaded) on the power supply, combination of Riken, Shinkoh, Kiwame, and Vishay S102 on the resistor, DACT 100K Stepped Attenuator volume control, Duelund CAST Ag as output coupling, Jensen Copper Foil Aluminum Tube as final Anode supply bypass, 6N1P-6N6P tubes. DIY Speaker with Vifa XT25 and PL18 (Auricap/Alpha Core/Solen/Duelund CAST Resistor inside). Power amplifier IC-based in AB-Class. Duelund 2.0 Rev 2 interconnect, custom DIY interconnect, Synergistic Research speaker cable, Cardas RCA, Shark RCA. All WBT solder on the signal side and most of the supply side.
emiliano milanesi
November 15, 2010 03:02hello
Reading your good test, I was very curious ..!
I would try changing the power of my preamplifier, and build an anode supply of tubes (mesh).
you will help me build it?
I have a preamplifier in tubes, use 2 6j5 and 2 ef806s. has an anode voltage of about 250 volt.
you think is a good idea?
I would greatly improve the sound of my preamplifier, and I think with feeding tubes, I’d get a lot Grace and transparency.
Many thanks and greetings Emiliano
Auw Jimmy
November 15, 2010 21:57Hi Emiliano,
I dont get your idea. What do you want to change on your preamplifier?
Thanks.
emiliano milanesi
November 16, 2010 01:13hello Jimmy
my preamplifier, having an anode power supply with solid state diodes.
My idea is to change power, build a new power valve, like the one you use in your preamplifier.
you will help me to design feeding tubes?
Thanks again and best regards Emiliano
Auw Jimmy
November 16, 2010 09:29Hi Emiliano,
You mean by making new power supply and use tube rectifier?
Thanks.
emiliano milanesi
November 16, 2010 16:23Hello Jimmy
Yes, I will build a new power supply with tubes rgn mesh…..
how your Aikido preamplifier.
you want to help me for the layout schematic and components.
thanks and regards Emiliano
Auw Jimmy
November 16, 2010 23:53Hi Emiliano,
You can refer to standard tube rectifier power supply, which you can search at google. Then you will need a main transformer with your secondary needs, the RGN, some capacitors and choke or resistor.
Thanks.
emiliano milanesi
November 17, 2010 02:13Hi Jimmy
I was thinking of building a power supply equal to yours.
You have already experienced many of the components or rectifier and made many tests, with your power supply, your result is secure.
you should list the components to be used and where, and where to buy a transformer, choke ecc
look about you.
thanks and regards Emiliano
Auw Jimmy
November 17, 2010 13:21Hi Emiliano,
Mine is DIY. But you can order from your location nearby, probably Sowther, Electraprint, etc.
For other parts, you can go to local electronic shop or online like PCX, Angela, PercyAudio, etc.
The rest just simple soldering skill.
Thanks.
emiliano milanesi
November 18, 2010 02:08Hello Jimmy
I was hoping I indicated, the values of the components and where to use them, however, tell me where you bought the transformer, with 4 volts are not easy to find.
Regards Emiliano
Auw Jimmy
November 18, 2010 02:24Hi Emiliano,
For 4V, you must go custom. Find a local transformer maker or contact the professional like Sowther or Electraprint or any others.
The value of the components are simple, just standard LC or RC filter. I think every tube rectifier power supply would use similar parts and value.
I would suggest you to search for basic tube rectifier power supply first on Google, get a basic knowledge, then we can discuss more. Otherwise it would take pages for me to explain.
Thanks.
Roy
December 10, 2010 22:28Gila… fansnya Bang Jim dari luar negeri juga ada 🙂
Auw Jimmy
December 12, 2010 23:39Biasa aja Bang 🙂
Thanks uda mampir.
alan
January 16, 2011 20:09Hi Jimmy,in your pre amp do you run your 5u4c straight into a choke or let the rectifier see a small parallel capacitor then choke?Plus can you give me a link to a data sheet for the 5u4c….I have read they only last 500hours surely this is not so…Alan
Auw Jimmy
January 17, 2011 22:18Hi Alan,
Both schematic could work. You can use either Choke Input or Capacitor Input mode with 5U4C. No problem.
This Russian tube probably doesn’t have datasheet officially published. But mine has gone over 1500 hours with no problem.
Thanks.
alan
January 18, 2011 01:23Jimmy, just one last question…if you go to this page
http://taooftubes.blogspot.com/2010/04/5u4c-russian-rectifier-tube-data.html
there is a chart that says “resistance in anode circuit=4700ohms”…does this mean that a 4.7k resistor (say 5wat) should be put between each of the two anodes of the 5u4c tube and the top and bottom windinds of the centre tap transformer i.e there would be two resistors one on each end of the secondary winding going to each anode.???
I am asking this because my psu supply is very similar to yours, but over the last month my transformer has started to hum loudly …the 5u4c sees only 1uf then a choke…I removed the big caps afterwards : still loud hum…I replaced the valves hum went…the tube was about 500 hours and my psu set up the same as yours
Auw Jimmy
January 18, 2011 21:50Hi Alan,
Basically you can add anode resistor and match with your rectifier datasheet. Let’s say your secondary winding resistance is 25R while your rectifier datasheet asks for 150R, then you can add 125R. But I dont think this is really necessary, especially if you have delay switch which will turn on the B+ after the filament got hot.
Thanks.
alan
January 19, 2011 03:27thanks for the help jimmy, may be my first pair were pre used valves???Duncans power supply simulator has no problem with my psu and I do have the delay switch..I will run on less uf and see what happens..all the best
Chandra
March 8, 2011 15:40Selamat Sore P. Jimmy, apakah pernah membandingkan AZ1/RGN dengan 83 mercury vapor??
Auw Jimmy
March 8, 2011 18:50Sore Pak Chandra,
Beda kelas Pak.
RGN 1054/64 (similar dengan AZ1) lebih punya resolusi, mid lebih fluid, lebih musical. Sangat cocok di preamp.
#83 Mercury lebih punya otot, mungkin lebih menarik di power amp.
Thanks.
Sean
September 23, 2016 14:41Hi Jimmy,
Is the rgn 1404 equilvalent to the 1064 or 1054 tube. Planning to change my tube rectifier on a cd player. Please advise??
Auw Jimmy
September 23, 2016 22:43Hi Sean,
Unfortunately no.
Thanks.