admirable blog. You are a technical freak using wordpress like me. haha. anyway. nice too meet you. i got your blog from google.
ScottG
August 19, 2009 02:53
Very nice capacitor grouping!
Question: what is “sweet”? I can understand the clarity and definition is superior with the teflon capacitor, but I’m not quite “getting” what is superior with the better paper and oils. More 3d imaging? Better harmonic saturation?
The one capacitor that probably should have been included was the Jupiter condenser capacitor (..despite tempo electrics marginal rating). I wouldn’t be surprised if it was very similar to the paper tube Jensen copper while being about half the cost.
Hi ScottG,
It’s a little bit difficult to define “sweet” by word (perhaps due to my limited vocab in English). I think we can also use “warm” or “mellow” (but not “dull”), which you can “taste” the lips, tongue, even singer’s breathe when singing. I think this refers to better harmonic saturation also. Like comparing a 300B tube vocal vs solid state vocal. Perhaps with this you can understand what do I mean by “sweet”.
We can’t make a general assumption about all Paper-In-oil Caps, since not all of them have similar sound. Let’s say Audio Note vs Jensen Paper-In-Oil. Even they both same Paper-In-Oil, but Jensen has better high frequency tones, while perhaps Audio Note has even “sweeter” vocal. More different if you try Jensen Paper Tube or Duelund.
I have tried Jupiter once… but this caps had gone away long ago (I sold it to my friend). Perhaps just not my cup of tea. If I could recall my memory correctly, the tones of this Jupiter is between Audio Note Copper and Jensen “classic” Copper. To Jensen Paper Tube? I can’t confirm, but I don’t think so.
And as my caveat has been written, the result my subject to the listener preference. YMMV.
Thanks for the links.
ScottG
August 19, 2009 13:36
Thank you for the reply Jimmy!
I can understand that 300B vs. solid state (..well, good solid state).
You could well be correct about the Jupiter capacitor. Note though that their materials/mechanical formulation has changed (..though for all I know it could be worse).
Just to make the discussion easier to be followed.
Thank you.
Face
September 11, 2009 02:14
In reference to your recent cap comparisons. You should give the Claritycap ESA a try as a coupling cap. It doesn’t compare to Duelund of course, but it has a nice warm tone to it and is very affordable. They’re also very compact in size. For a little more transparency and a little more high end tilt, the Claritycap MR is also a great coupling cap. Both are also just as impressive in speaker crossovers.
Hi Face,
Thanks for your information. Too bad when I bought all caps from PCX, they didnt carry ClarityCap. Here in my country (Indonesia), hardly to find a good caps. So I need to buy overseas. From your description, I think the ESA could be similar to Jensen. But if I could recall my brain correctly, the MR also quite expensive.
Not in this about page. Just to simplify the discussion.
Thanks.
ericcm
September 12, 2009 01:45
dear jimmy, i hope you can help me with my problem. i own a konzert ks-8w subwoofer(this is the only sub i can afford)but unfortunately the toroidal transformer was burnt, i forgot the unit to turn off after listening a number of songs. it just stays on for almost one day. since in our place there was no support from konzert, so i opt to buy an ei type transformer since there is also no available toroidal transformer here. the rating of ei is 18v-0-18v, 3Amp. the rating of thr toroidal trans is 17.5v-0-17.5v, i don’t know the ampere rating but it has 220VA printed. now my problem comes in here, all relevant connection to the transformer was already done by soldering. but when i turn on the switch, the fuse would suddenly blow. i would replaced it again and still it would blow. what is supposed the problem? i hope you can find time answering me. i was really thankful i come across on your website. than you and god bless. eric
Kevin Little
November 3, 2009 07:17
I happen to have a black plate RCA 12b4a NOS tube and 3 NOS 6bq5/EL84 tubes. Are you interested in them to purchase?
stenor
January 1, 2010 04:29
Hello Jimmy I’ve been reading your journal/articles/blog..? with great interest for some time. And now I’m looking to take advantage of your experience (mwahaha) *evil laugh*. Well, that is if you’ll allow it. I’m making psu for some nxV300 modules (aussieamplifiers) and aiming for 60-100k uf per channel, toroid +-500va (dual mono). I need advice on caps to use, they shouldn’t be ultra expensive, but they could be “a little expensive” if that give much improvement.
So, you have any good advice? (oh, and they should be about 100v 8-15k uf range)
Jimmy, can I get your comments on Mr. X’s RS241 amplifier? I’ve been looking to go for one, and I was interested in getting it made by tube lovers indonesia… pls email me at lindenpark at gmail dot com, thanks!!!
I think the CuTF has limited capacitance for now? If I could recall my brain correctly, the max capacitance is 0.33uF? While my TFTF is 0.47. Not really a nice comparison.
Thanks.
Sergey
April 20, 2010 03:27
Hi.
Jimmy (and anyone who can advice), i got a quite inappropriate question. As it is the only Indonesian site in the world I know, maybe you can give me a lead.
Dont’t you know some local site where I can buy some kilo’s of REAL PALM SAGO PEARLS? Maybe some on-line grossery or just discussion boards with English speaking people where I could order a bit of this.
Hopefully, it wasn’t too stupid 🙂
Thanks.
P.S. My Altec 5021 mod doing fine. Now building a tube hea-damp.
Ramon
April 22, 2010 23:25
Hi Jimmy, i am one of your avid web site readers and i love to visit your web site. What do you think about the impamp? Do you have any idea for a small pre amp and recommendation for bookshelf speaker for it?
Hi Ramon,
Never heard that one, so hardly to comment. But if some rumors on the diyaudio are correct, then this is a nice stuff.
No need preamp I believe, just with your source volume control (like PC Sound Card or iPod or CDP). Can try passive attenuator also.
For the speaker, I got no idea. Perhaps a DIY with 3″ like Tangband?
Thanks.
Ramon
April 26, 2010 13:20
Thanks Jimmy for giving me hints of having a passive attenuator. I discovered a supplier http://luminousaudio.com/axiom/rca.html
Any comment? I like to drive the mini tube amp with a cd player source. It looks like they need to know system spec before install the resistor.
My imp amp tube input have -20db consumer to +4db pro level adjustable trimmers.
I’m sorry, I’m not a seller. You can try to find in local electronic shop or online shop.
Thanks.
sid
July 5, 2010 14:00
Hi Jimmy,
Quite an exhaustive plethora of information here. Very impressed by your passion for electronics on the inside of the musical boxes, which actually makes or break the music.
AA) Jim, i need your feelers on Elma &/or Shallco switches. I have picked a Promitheus Signature 2 box TVC version. I have gone ahead with & in past have had experience of hearing a Shallco but never and Elma.
Could it be possible to share some details, if you have been able to compare them both ever.
BB) What possibly could be added to a TVC passive-pre to make it sound more huge in all possible respects. Considering we is being used for now it C-core transformer, Elma switches, copper plates etc. (You can avoid this question if its vague to reply back)
Hi Sid,
I think Shallco should be higher grade compared to Elma. Or you can go with Seiden for the ultimate one.
I think the problem with most TVC is with the output. I would suggest to add at least an active buffer circuit, not just the passive TVC circuit itself.
Or at least, you must know exactly to what device (its impedance spec) which match your TVC, to make sure your TVC will perform well with the device connected to its output.
Sir Jimmy, as you can see, after my mods i still come here for some advice/doubts ! you’re my source for audio knowledge.
So this time is : I’m thinking about creating a party for m friend etc and i was wondering if i could mix my sound system with my brothers.
So a computer would be the source of audio, then a creative xmod(pre amp), then the Altec lansing(amp) , then i would like to attach both my speakers and my brothers both in the same “slot” of altec lansing subwoofer.
this maybe it isnt possible but i would like to understand why, or what kind of criteria is used to calculate this stuff etc.
Hi Cuni,
All you need is to buy a splitter. So from your x-mod, you can connect to your Altec and your brother’s speaker at the same time.
Let me know if what you need is different than my idea.
Thanks.
Cuni
September 7, 2010 04:04
yo!
Sir Jimmy, your idea is the perfect one , i wonder why i didnt thought about it…..anyway my inicial idea was to conect both speakears, mine(2) and my bro(2), to the alte lansing sub….i understand its against the rules, but i want to know why.
Hi Cuni,
By connecting all the speaker to Altec sub, I assume your idea is to have 2 speakers connected to the left output from Altec sub, and 2 speakers connected to right output from Altec sub, right? So you will have 4 speakers + 1 sub.
Btw, your brother’s speaker is passive or active one?
If your brother’s speaker is active one, definitely you shouldn’t do this. You should follow my previous suggestion.
If your brother’s speaker is passive one, you must check the total impedance first (your brother speaker + your Altec satellite). By combining two speakers on one output (from left or right channel), you must sum the total impedance of both speakers connected and see if they are still in range with the Altec’s amplifier output specification. Otherwise, you may damage Altec’s amplifier inside. But I also not suggest this way, unless you know what you are doing.
Thanks.
William
September 11, 2010 17:56
Hallo Pak Jimmy,
I’m so glad to have found your website (from Google). Very informative and inspiring 🙂
Would you kindly tell a bit about your system? I just started learning about the wonderful world of DIY, my system consists of modded Marantz CD94 transport outputting I2S to my DAC, custom TDA1541a double crown tube DAC, JLTi EL34 (http://www.customanalogue.com/jlti_el34.htm) with Telefunken PCC88 and Philips brown base double D getter, a pair of Quad 21L2 (to be upgraded to horns setup, either Axiom 80 or Tannoy HPD 385) and a pair of Altecs 515C.
I’ll be visiting Indonesia next month and I’m so keen to know about DIY world there. Thank you.
Hi Pak William,
Currently, I’m “building” my system. Most of the time before, I only put them on the desk, never ending experimenting from CDP to speaker. But now I’m starting to settle them one by one. Lot of funds been spent without a real result sometime makes me feel guilty. It takes time to settle down all these things, just enjoy it.
You have a nice setup. Do you visit ID for vacation or … ?
Thanks.
William
September 11, 2010 22:21
That’s correct Pak Jimmy, for vacation, been living in down under for a while, it’ll be my first time coming back to my home country after several years, really miss my family and friends there…
About building the system, well aren’t we all the same (I don’t have such expertise as yours though), I just started playing around with components such as Jensen, Duelund, Black Gate, military PIO caps, etc etc… Very true that we have to spend some hard earned cash to experiment things, I’ve been lucky enough to meet some people in here which got vast experience and expertise in this wonderful hifi world. Basically, I’ve been learning from them and I’ve also found my reference system here so I don’t have to waste so much money experimenting stuff.
I’m hoping to learn more and I would really like to meet DIYers, hifi and music lovers back in Indonesia. So if you happen to know any hifi clubs in Jakarta, would you please let me know? It would be great if we can keep in touch and someday meet up as well.
Hi William,
Yes we have some local mailing-list for this audio and also have some local DIY gathering. You can join if you are interested, at [email protected].
If you are lucky enough, perhaps you can join our gathering (every 2-3 months usually).
Btw, where are you located now?
Thanks.
William
September 13, 2010 17:16
Hi Pak Jimmy,
Please contact me by email if you don’t mind, I am uncomfortable sharing my details on the net.
Thanks for the link, and yeah I would really love to join the gathering.
Will you have a way to contact jason liu 劉英似?
Roger
December 17, 2010 20:04
Hi Jimmy – weird question out the blue from someone you never met. I been trying to find a local agent (I live in Cape Town) for Sanwa multimeters and failed – or even to find schematic on the Net. I see you use one… (you can see where this is going)…
Would you have a burst of shiny happy goodwill to open yours and tell me what the little pot is for the 0ohm adjust knob? I damaged mine, removed it to replace, then lost it :(((
This is funny. Check out the pics. Duelunds resistor is nothing more than a 50 cent Faber Castel 5H pencil lead, which doesn’t even have much carbon in it. A 5B has more carbon. This is pure graphite and has no silver in it at all.
The pics can be found at the following website address. Apparently, this site won’t let me post a link so You’ll have to put in the www before it.
Hi Nick,
To be honest, I can see long time ago that they use graphite things inside the resistor (well everyone could see it inside the “bamboo” hole which covers the resistor). If you ever read Troel Gravesen website, he also ever mentions about the usage of such technique.
For this Duelund and Faber Castel things, I also have read around end of last year (or early this year). But I didn’t pay a lot of attention on it.
I have the standard and the CAST one. For the CAST one, as they “cast” it with something, so what’s inside probably not clear enough. But I assume they are the same materials, except additional casting process.
I bought them around $20 or less (on discount session I think, few years ago from PCX). For this amount, I think the cost is still reasonable. I’m not on Duelund side, but making the resistor (removing the wood from the Faber Castel without breaking the graphite is also not an easy job), then must connect it to the wire (which not solderable on the graphite side), make the bamboo cover, etc, probably won’t be easy if you do DIY. Even if I knew about this earlier, I prefer to spend $15-20 to buy the finished one, guarantee to work, and no risk. Sometime DIY also nice, but I’ve never DIY on component parts due to higher risk – yet.
Some other foil based resistor like S102 or the higher end model, TX2575, also quite pricey. I don’t think the raw material could be that expensive to.
You also can see thousand $$$ for a CD Player which based on CD-Pro2 which we know the cost is less than $1K or even less than 500$. Why don’t make by ourselves? Guido Tent from TentLabs also makes his DIY CD Player, but the price also not cheap. I think this is the “school fee” that we have to pay in order to respect their design and creation (and you just sit back, give your credit card number, and wait them to be delivered). If it sounds bad, definitely they will have bad reputation from the customer, sooner or later 🙂
So my opinion is, just take it or leave it. If you can make it better and cheaper, the market is wide open for you to do it 🙂 Perhaps somebody got idea with 5B and more carbon? Then do comparison with Duelund one, publish on DIYAudio, AA, Audiogon, etc? Why not? But as in most business does, if you can make it better, I’m quite sure you will sell it even more expensive, right? 🙂
Benar dual layer.
Post komen-nya di sana saja Pak, jangan di postingan “About”, supaya tidak bingung.
Thanks.
Luis Nino de Rivera
August 20, 2011 08:39
hello and good day to you jimmy, first of congrats you truly posses a talent very few have in this wonderfull art. Im new to the hobby and wish to make the best quality amp I possibly can not only because my tube amp recently passed away (effing light outs) but also since this will gount as my final proyect in college this semester lol so any help, schematics, pieces, parts, walkthroughs or simple support will be forever thanked. oh and a good question, can one build a 7.1 surround sound system based on single ended amps, preamps and power? with kind and warm regarths uour fan luis
Hi Jessie,
Better if you connect it to the amp…
Thanks.
stephen
November 29, 2011 13:58
hi Jimmy – I am an expat in JKT and one of my Altec Lansing speakers not working – I think it’s the jack /wiring… getting that all too familiar ‘buzz’ sound – can you recommend a shop where I can take it get to repaired… I tried to take it apart but can’t find any screws!! (alamak!) looks like it’s molded one piece… I am sure a repair shop can sort it…..any suggestions???
Hi Jimmy,
I enjoy reading your blog.
I have done upgrades to my speakers crossovers. Used Obbligato copper caps, and Janzten Cross cap in other speakers, replacing the Solen.
Ive been using a solder, i cant even find much information on the internet. Its Goot SF-A0410 (3% silver, 0.5%copper, rest tin). It dries super fast, components sound fine to me.
I am curious about Mundorf Suprememe with 9.5% silver content, you gave it a nice review. In the past, ive also used WBT-0800.
Hi,
I start to switch to Mundorf Supreme for some application, but still have WBT around 250gram on hand… 🙂 Both are good…
Thanks.
Denis
December 28, 2011 01:19
Hi Jimmy
I’m thinking of tweaking my Audible Illusions preamp’s power supply caps. It uses 2 4700 uf/50V and a 10,000 uf/10V. Seems have to use electrolytics given the large capacitance, even though I’ve heard that file and foil caps are better. What do you think of the Mundorf MLytic? http://www.eltim.eu/data/mediablocks/MUNDORF%20MLytic%20catalog%20july11.pdf
Any suggestion would be much appreciated.
Denis
Hi Bryan,
Yes I have some for my private use, but at this moment (also due to the market pricing out there), I dont think I will sell it.
Sorry. Have a good 2012 for you to.
Thanks.
Ryan
February 18, 2012 11:52
Pak, pernah pengalaman reparasi CDP – Rotel RCD 1072? atau punya kontak service center nya?
kasusnya: tiba2 no disc. padahal tiap minggu masih rutin di-play.
Hi John,
I dont think VCap is a cheap choice anyway? 🙂
Btw, it’s not easy to decide, as those three mostly in different league and I have no idea where you gonna put that and what is your preference in terms of the ‘music’ itself. Giving suggestion at this stage is merely a ‘guessing game’ and I dont think it’s a wise choice 🙂
Thanks.
John
February 23, 2012 11:00
I think I’ll probably spend more and step up to Duelund VSF.
Hi Jimmy, your blog is truly very inspiring and informative. I like your work. I like to seek your advice regarding on cdp mod. My cdp power caps are 4700uf 25v. But if I change to 10000uf 25v, does it help to improve the sound quality? I not intending to change the clock or some drastic mods. My cdp is Marantz CD6000ose KI. Thanks for the help.
Hi Yudi,
As far as I know, MX5021 uses standard EI transformer, not Toroid. Also if I could recall my memory correctly, MX5021 needs two secondary windings with 2 different voltage. Maybe not easy to get toroid with that spec. Btw, it would be better if you post under MX5021 related entry, not on this “About” page 🙂
Thanks.
Ryan
May 18, 2012 21:48
Hey Jimmy, I just recently got my brother’s MX5021. He told me he was having some problem with them and they don’t produce any sound. I anyways got them to check. I have no experience with speakers. I was just wondering if they can be repaired. The woofer is able to power up the control pod and the speakers but there is no sound. The satellites work fine when I connect them to some other player but they don’t work when connected to MX5021 woofer. I got the woofer checked with local electrician and he said all the internal wiring is fine. Any clue?
Hi Ryan,
I believe your local electrician could have some skill checking electronics. So he would be the best guy you can find for good advise. Hard to “remotely” find the problem from here, but I suspect your amp chipset could have some problem.
Thanks.
selamat siang pak Jimmy….
Bisakah saya mendapatkan contact person bapak atau email bapak untuk pembicaraan tentang pembuatan article produk kami..
regards
csr casio
Zak
September 17, 2012 18:56
Hi Jimmy,
I’m a British expat living and working here, I have a passion in Audio mostly Theatre Systems however am building a 2 channel rig. Was wandering where are you located? I am located in Bintaro Sector 3 and would like join your events?
Hi Zak,
It would be very nice if you can join our even which we call GUYUB AUDIO BINTARO. Jimmy Auw is my (our) best friend, he is also my teacher for tweaking. You are most welcome to join on the next even on Sept 29, 2012 at my home : Jl. Titihan 2 HG12A/14, Bintaro Sektor 9 (just in front of “SEKOLAH JEPANG”). My email : [email protected].
Well, thank you Bung Jimmy !
Hi Zak,
The host of the event is Mr Didik Wiryawan. His home is not too far away from your place, I think.
Thanks.
Kalvin
September 20, 2012 18:34
hai bro jimmy,
saya minta email nya boleh ? mau tanya2 sedikit tentang modding car audio amp..
Anto Daryanto
November 14, 2012 16:35
Pak Jimmy
Kebetulan saya mau membuat integrated amplifier dengan minimal 3 input dan pre-out untuk subwoofer. Apakah ada rekomendasi paket lengkap dan dimana belinya ?
Hi Pak Anto,
Ini maksudnya paket lengkap barang jadi kah? Kalo seperti itu umumnya bisa didapat di amplifier integrated. Mereknya ada banyak macam, harga juga bervariasi sekitar 2jutaan ke atas biasanya.
Ada recomend tempat utk beli kit amplifier / pre-amp / PCB di daerah HARCO?
Cuma tau tempat Bowo Electronics sama Ayung.
Kalau tdk keberatan bisa PM saya ke email?
Terima kasih
Hi Pak Didit,
Ya dua tempat itu yang paling lengkap kalo mencari kit yang cukup berkelas sih Pak.
Kalo yang pasaran, bisa ke Bogor (di arah belakang).
Thanks.
Saya senang sekali membaca cerita2 Anda tentang elektronik dan alat suara yg audiophile. Anda pinter sekali dengan semuanya, tingkat cerita di blog ini tinggi sekali. Saya sedikit cemburu dengan alat audio yg high-end Anda punya 😉 Mungkin nanti saya bisa belinya juga, tapi saya harus bekerja keras dulu (saya masih muda, 26 tahun). Kalau saya di Indonesia lagi (mampir dgn pamanku), boleh saya mendengar system hi-end Anda? Saya ingin tahu sekali!
Hi Pak Roiko,
System saya biasa2 saja. Tidak ada yang istimewa. Karena hobi saya otak atik, maka kadang2 system saya tidak bisa bunyi karena keseringan dioprek dan oprekannya belum selesai. Kalo Bapak tertarik di bidang audio dan DIY ini, saran saya join ke milis [email protected] dan [email protected]. Keduanya cukup banyak diisi oleh DIY berpengalaman dan sering sharing berbagai hasil karya membernya. Kadang kita kumpul2 setiap beberapa bulan sekali sekedar untuk mendengarkan hasil oprekan. Saya masih tidak ada apa2nya dibandingkan member di milis tersebut. Oh ya, milis tersebut juga isinya orang Indonesia semua.
Hi Chang,
I would like to, but unfortunately, I have no such experience (and time) to do so, at least at present time. Really sorry for that. I think you can build yourself and as usual, you can always ask me (if I can answer).
Thanks.
Too Tall
April 1, 2013 22:16
I work at a nuclear plant where we use the Sencore LC102 to test caps prior to installation. I have called the tech rep from the manufacturer but have received incomplete answers. Here are my questions. When checking leakage on a cap it gives you readings that flucuate between < 1 micro amp (bad) and then to 0000 (good). When do you really know if it is good or not? Same with dielectric absorbtion. It will read 1 or 2 and if you hold the button long enough it will read 0. It also flucates for ESR. Which reading is acceptable? If you can answer these questions it would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Timothy,
Sorry, I have no idea. Sencore tech should be your best resort.
Thanks.
Azuma
July 27, 2013 01:45
salam kenal mas jimmy,
sy boleh minta sarannya mas
sy mau buat speaker diy 2.1 yg setara logitech z623 atau hifi swan m50w, bisa dibantu mas,
komponen2 apa aja yg sy butuhkan dan driver2nya
terima kasih
Hi Mas Azuma,
Saran saya mending beli Logitech atau Swan-nya saja. Bikin sendiri belum tentu bisa lebih murah, dan risiko kegagalan yang tidak kecil.
Terima kasih.
Azuma
July 27, 2013 19:37
oow gitu ya mas jimmy,
setidaknya sy bs minta saran untuk buat speaker 2.1 yg murah meriah mas jimmy terutama komponen2nya diluar speaker, krn sy sdh punya speaker LG bekas dvd player 5.1
terima kasih
Hi Mas Azuma,
Saran saya, beli saja speaker yang sudah jadi, macam Logitech atau Swan tadi. Nanti tinggal dioprek dikit. Kalo bikin dari nol, rasanya kerepotannya tidak begitu sebanding, kecuali mau bikin yang bagusan sekalian (which is cost-nya tidak akan murah).
Terima kasih.
voila
September 6, 2013 00:20
om jimmy ada bengkel atau toko gak om?pengen mod speaker nih,,bisa di bantu gak om?tolong bales k email ya..thanks..
Mnrt Bro Jim IC apa yg bisa direct replace u up grade IC JRC tersebut?
pingin karakter yg analog,natural dan transparan.
Thanks Bro Jim…..
Sukses selalu……
Hi Pak Marcos,
Sulit untuk menentukan replacement yang cocok jika tidak tahu karakter system secara keseluruhan.
Secara teknis, seharusnya kompatibilitasnya cukup banyak dan tidak masalah sih.
Terima kasih.
Rudi Wijaya
October 18, 2014 19:19
Ko Jimmy, mungkin pertanyaan w jauh dari masalah audio. Kalo mau belajar elektronika sampai gitu pandai seperti ko jimmy belajar dari mana aja ya? ada buku atau website rujukan? kalo berkenan w pengen ngobrol via email jg. Thanks ! 😀
Hi Bro Rudy,
Saya sama sekali jauh dari pandai. Masih perlu banyak belajar. Banyak yang jauh lebih jago dari saya.
Saya sendiri belajar dari buku, Internet, Youtube, dkk. Secara kamu bisa akses Internet, saya rasa kamu juga bisa belajar sendiri.
Terima kasih.
welly
November 5, 2014 21:31
selamat malam pak Jimmy.
saya mau tanya nih capacitor jansen 0.47 uf 630v pio.
sepasang berapa y? dan bisa order kah ke pak jimmy.
Thx.
Cosmin
December 15, 2014 19:33
Hello,
I read your posts related to Altec Lansing MX5021 and saw that you made some tuning to the system. I have also an MX5021 for a couple of years and I loving it. The issue is that a couple of days ago the satellites go silent and only the subwoofer still make some sounds.
I wonder if your have the electrical diagram of the system and can share it with me. I don’t want to give up on him and I want to repair it if it’s possible.
If you can help me please use the email from the comment.
Hi Cosmin,
Unfortunately I dont have any schematic.
Thanks.
Mursid
June 7, 2015 15:11
Hi jimmy,
Saya tertarik dengan audio seperti anda, saya ingin mempelajari ini secara mendalam. Oleh karena itu saya ingin tahu tips untuk mempelajari elektronika secara mendalam dan mahir seperti anda. Can you tell me?
Hi Pak Mursid,
Saya tidak mahir2 amat, cuman tahu2 dikit saja.
Saran saya coba belajar dari buku atau Internet, atau join forum2 audio/diy. Dari situ saja kok. Kecuali Anda mau sekolah khusus elektronik. Itu lebih bagus lagi.
Terima kasih.
J
June 30, 2015 13:28
Hi Jimmy
I have a General Radio Meter that I think needs repair. I have removed the meter from the unit. On the back side of the meter it has four terminals . I pair for an AC connection and the second pair for a DC connection.
Hi,
I think that would be quite complicated to repair…
Thanks.
DoditW
August 22, 2015 13:01
Hallo om Jimmy,
Sudah lama ga bersua nih. Saya sendiri sibuk ga sempet lagi main audio semenjak berumah tangga. Sementara ini hanya memanfaatkan yg sudah ada saja belum berfikir upgrade besar.
Bisa minta saran,
Quad 11L saya drive pake Arcam A85 player USB HifiMe DIY ESS Sabre via PC Desktop. sepertinya mati satu tweeternya.
Cari replacement nya sepertinya susah. Dulu pernah kena woofernya dan di upgrade oleh om Djon Welly.
Bisakah Anda memberi saran alternatif untuk mengganti tweeternya yang pas yang gampang ada di pasaran tentunya?
Apakah Vifa BC25TG15-04 1″ Textile harga 600rb cukup kah? Atau malah terlalu berlebih.
Ataukah alternatif lain yg ada di pasar yang lebih murah tapi cukup bagus sebagai pengganti?
Hi Pak Dodit,
Tidak disarankan untuk mengganti driver yang berbeda tanpa mengubah crossover. Atau dengan kata lain, sebaiknya gunakan tweeter aslinya (harus cari penggantinya).
Thanks.
Paul
January 8, 2016 04:04
Hello,
Are you still stuck with your HP3561A?
What eprom and software version do you need? If i have the same version I can make a dump, you’ll need a blank chip and programmer to avoid sending stuff across the world.
Paul
E. Palazzo
January 12, 2016 02:31
Hi Jimmy,
My Onkyo SE-90 pci has a problem on one channel, audio is (almost completely) gone, if I turn volume way up, I still can hear the sound very faintly and distorted.
Other channel is fine, and it´s not the cables.
Any indication on what the problem might be is greatly appreciated,
Hi,
It could be your opamp failed or your coupling caps. Need more detail check, though.
Thanks.
E. Palazzo
January 14, 2016 17:04
OK, I know where to start looking now, thank you !
adhistya febryanto
March 15, 2016 00:37
bro jimmy, mo tanya nih, soundcard essence stx saya tiba2 suaranya hilang, habis volume saya besarin ternyata suaranya ada tapi pecah2 parah dan patah2, suara di headphone juga jadi sangat pelan sekali, opamp udah saya ganti baru dan ternyata masih sama aja, kira2 kerusakannya dimana ya bro? board saya liat seksama ga ada tanda2 kebakar dan soundcard masih terdeteksi dengan mudah di pc… mohon bantuannya ya bro jimmy… soundcard kesayangan soalnya… hix2 :'(
Maaf Bro baru bales. Agak susah problemnya untuk ditebak, harus benar2 ditrace problemnya dimana.
Terima kasih.
alvin
May 16, 2016 01:32
Pak mau nanya harga jensen 0.47 berapaan ya? Thanks
Bayu Dwi Arifianto
June 22, 2016 22:34
Hi pak Jimmy,bisa saya lihat rangkain skematik
eugen vrsic
January 30, 2017 17:31
Hi Jimmy,
just a question, do you think WE 274B and telefunken rgn 1054 rectifier can be interchangable?
I use at the moment EML 274B mesh plate but just a picture of mesh 1054 made me drooling…_)
Thanks a lot,
Eugen
Aldy
February 21, 2017 17:56
YTH Bpk Jimmy,
Salam kenal sebelumnya, nama saya Aldy. Mohon maaf pak saya mau bertanya, meminta referensi dari bpk. Saya punya sedikit koleksi home audio vintage/klasik. Nilai nominal dari amplifier2, speaker2 ini mungkin tdk seberapa, tapi berarti buat saya. Bpk bisa mereferensikan kontak/teman bapak yg punya kompetensi, idealnya seperti bpk tentunya, yang bisa di percaya, dan mau menservis, reparasi dan bahkan merestorasi perangkat2 audio vintage/klasik. Mohon reply dr bpk ke email saya. Tksh sebelumnya.
kanto
March 7, 2017 15:44
Hai Pak Jimmy,
Saya mohon saran bapak untuk service amplifer tabung , masalah yang timbul adalah bila power on langsung keluar suara mendesis.
I am making a 8pcs PCM1704 DAC with I2S@HDMI input. Is there any transformer facility can make digital audio transformer for I2S?
Thanks
Auw Jimmy
May 3, 2017 20:02
Hi Clark,
It might not go into mass production, I think.
Thanks.
andre
May 10, 2017 15:25
Halo Pak,
bisa minta bantuan untuk trace (reverse-engineer) rangkaian dengan pcb dual layer?
ukuran pcb sekitar 4 x 6 cm, komponen smd.
kalau bisa, nanti saya kirim rangkaiannya dan biaya jasanya.
Terima kasih pak.
Manzur
May 19, 2017 11:58
Hi Jimmy,
Your topic on “Inside Altec Lansing MX5021: Amplifier Mod” is the best article in the internet on how to modify the amp circuit.
I have a similar speaker system but has stopped working.
There is neither any sound from any satellite speakers nor from the sub woofer but noises come from only the right channel.
It would be a huge help if you tell where should I start to check for any faults, I cannot find any clue.
Waiting for your kind reply.
~Regards~
Mas jimmy untuk ramuan herbal yang untuk membersihkan pembuluh darah, seandainya langsung diminum satu sendok setiap pagi tanpa dicampur air hangat tidak apa apa kan ?
Trims jawaban nya ya mas .
Auw Jimmy
December 28, 2017 21:04
Tidak apa-apa Pak.
Nguyen Trung
January 6, 2018 10:29
Hi Jimi,
Cn you share me 1x AD1865 i2s input decorder PCB, of course i will pay, thanks [email protected]
Yoshi
January 23, 2018 13:19
Hi Jimmy,
I want “ATP Quantum Disc for Schumann Resonator”
How can I buy it?
How much is the price?
Yoshi
January 23, 2018 13:25
Hi Jimmy.
I am interested in “ATP Quantum Disc for Schumann Resonator”
How much is the price?
Blueberryjam
April 9, 2018 15:39
Hi Jimmy,
On your Korg MR-2000 articled you mentioned that there shouldn’t be any issue using a PATA-SATA convertor to upgrade the internal SSD to another disk.
My original hard drive failed, so I’m using a msata to 50 pin IDE adapter (the only one I could find) and a Samsung 860 evo drive. However I can’t get it to work. No matter how I format it, when I turn on the Korg I get an error saying the drive is not FAT32. I can then format it inside the Korg, but then it’s stuck on “working” and never actually formats. It doesn’t seem like the new drive/adapter are compatible with the Korg.
Would you have any tips I could use to make it work ?
Cheers.
Blue
MARC
June 13, 2018 20:36
Hi Jimmy,
first of all thank for your hard for your blog, very usefull.
For me is very intresting the testing of outer caps foil, may i ask you how to realize that measurement ?, step by spep…
thank you indeed.
marc
Halls
July 19, 2018 04:01
Hi, Jimmy,
What do you think of these Solen you mentioned in your post ?
I saw them mounted in a Zanden 6000 amplifier.
Any good ?
For future 845/211 project. Giant Solen MKP 51uF rated at 1500VDC!!!
Thank you,
Halls
Jimmy Auw
July 19, 2018 11:37
Hi Marc,
It’s ok for its price level.
Thanks.
PK
September 12, 2018 07:00
Hi Jimmy,
I am looking to purchase a state of the art mains power transformer for my DIY monoblock amplifiers. Currently, I have a Hammond power transformer which serves the output stage only (no filament, no driver stage). The problem is that the Hammond is buzzing mechanicallly and also has a 60 and 120 hz hum. So, hoping to find the highest quality mains power transformer 1780V @ 202mA for my GM70 tube output stage. Any thoughts on power transformers that you like / recommend?
Hi PK,
How state of the art you are referring to?
Thanks.
Gary Trautmann
January 4, 2019 21:54
Hello Jimmy,
I am looking for details/schematic, any relevant details to you 6N1P tube buffer, assuming you had success with it, or another updated design.
Kind regards,
Gary
Hello Jimmy,
I’ve read your article about Jensen 4-pole capacitors and kindly ask you to share your opinion regarding sonic difference between Jensen and Mundorf electrolityc caps. I would like to replace BHC caps in my preamp and monoblocks (both solid state) but can’t make a decition because of lack of information. I have 2 options for preamp (I would like to try 4 – pole caps because of it’s filtering effect):
1. Jensen Capacitor 15000uF 63Vdc 4-Pole
2. Mundorf MLytic AG+ MLGO+ 22000uF 63VDC (4 pole)
And I have only one option for power amps (because of size) – Jensen Radial electrolytic capacitor with screw terminal 22000µF 63 VDC.
I will highly appreciate if you describe sonic difference between 1 and 2 vs BHC and also about Jensen for monoblocks. I’m especially looking for natural vocal and deep (but solid) bass.
Sincerely,
Boris
Ferenc
April 1, 2020 18:57
Hi Jimmy,
I see you have technically tested the J & K C-core HIB power transformer.
Can you tell me something how it sounds?
Building a SE amp using NOS Tungsol 7241 / 7242 graphite plate tubes, with 100W dissipation. I’m in dayly contact with Ken to specify the huge power/choke/output transformers required.
A few comments on musicality may help a lot.
Thanks: Ferenc
Aron
September 3, 2020 08:35
Hi Jimmy,
I’m considering purchasing a Primrose audio toroidal transformer for a DIY power amp based Avondale Audio NCC220 modules. How did yours work out for you?
Thanks in advance,
Aron
Jose Oliveira
September 5, 2020 14:26
Hi
My HP200lx have a big dark zone on the screen.
Can I do something about it?
Istvan Fulop
October 5, 2020 04:58
Hi Jimmy
Can you send my some pictures of the Cayin CD17 inside modification?
Where did you soldered the jensen caps? I want to do the same, and the value of the caps too.
Thanks.
Regards. Istvan
Hi Aron,
It’s good transformer. But I can’t compare with other as I dont have other with same spec. But it has good build quality and no issue after being used for years.
Thanks.
Hi Ferenc,
It’s really good sounding transformer. I suggest you go to J&K Facebook. A lot of people gives great feedback. Maybe good for your to take a look and get more feedback.
Thanks.
Hi Boris,
Sorry I missed your question. Jensen already shut down their operation. So your option might be between Mundorf or BHC.
Personal view, I like Jensen, more neutral sounding. But they are no more. Mundorf could be good alternate. Can’t really comment on BHC – I ever tried, but long time ago and not in serious occasion. Hardly recall this one. Sorry.
Thanks.
Raul Lopez Roman
April 26, 2021 17:28
Hi Jimmy,
Fabulous web, very interesting.
I have soldered 22k an niobium to replace 180k to convert CF with ecc83 to ecc81.
Do u know, as you measure, any specific direction in AN resistors?
Thanks
Yee
December 14, 2021 00:33
Jimmy, can I buy the 2sk170 x 4? Want to build a Pass B1 preamp. Thank you.
Hi Yee, I’m so sorry, not really selling this at the moment. Thank you.
Gibson
August 30, 2022 12:48
Hi Jimmy,
I saw your older post about the Sencore LC102. I’ve recently come into possession of one that required some extensive repair, however I’ve run into a bit of a snag. Resistors R67 and R68 on the leakage supply board (3000) seem to be completely absent from all available Sencore schematics and I removed them assuming that they would be there in order to replace them with newer, precision resistors.
Would it be at all possible for you to open yours up and check the value of these two? They’re right above C12. It’s be a huge help!
Best regards
Lsantista
September 20, 2022 22:28
Hi Jimmy
This is the guy inquiring on YT over the transformers upgrades for the EK 8900. I’ve so much Id like to ask since Im 100% new to DIY and obvsiosly YT aint the best channel. Maybe you can see my email address together with this message and can send hello there. Or we can chat here of course.
My 8900 and 8550 will take several weeks still to arrive, but I cant even find good solder here in Brazil and trying to import. Also would like to ask regarding what flux/past you recommend and where.
Best
Admin
September 21, 2022 10:43
Hi Lsantista,
I dont use any flux, just tin solder like WBT and Mundorf which has flux inside.
Thanks.
Jaffrie
October 10, 2022 15:38
Hi Jimmy,
Thank you, been following your blogs for moons. Lol
Need advice pls, recently I chance upon a 300B driven by 2a3 via interstage trafo which was build by
Mr. Arif Wicaksono . Its functioning but condition is in a sorry state. I want to rebuild
the amp but no schema & am unable to locate Arif. Wonder if you happen to have any contact
with him. Would greatly appreciate if you could advice. Worse case scenerio is to strip everything
& rebuild with new circuitry but still using the Trafo units
Many thanks & apologies for troubling you
Admin
October 10, 2022 16:11
Hi Jaffrie,
What I understand, Pak Arif no longer doing DIY stuff. But you still can find him in Facebook. I saw him posting some activities few weeks back.
Thanks.
Jennifer Edwards
December 24, 2022 18:20
Hi Jimmy,
I Recently purchased a HICKOK 539B and came across your article about yours while searching for some information about them. So I thought I would ask if you have found out anything about my quest.
I am trying to determine how to set up my 539 to test valves that do not have selector settings published. I can easily find spec sheets about almost any valve, what I am seeking is a paper, article, or something explaining how to work backwards to the tester selector settings from tube specs.
If you could direct me to a source of how to accomplish this would be greatly appreciated.
Jenny In Yorkshire
Auw Jimmy
December 25, 2022 22:53
Jenny,
I think you need to find the Service Manual, then you can “reverse engineer” the schematic. This should be able to give you a view on how those switches work, one by one.
RICHARD
May 25, 2009 08:03sir jimmy, can you furnish me the pin configuration
of altec lansing vs4121 9pins connector, because all the wire of my connectors are all cut off.
elliot
May 28, 2009 23:38admirable blog. You are a technical freak using wordpress like me. haha. anyway. nice too meet you. i got your blog from google.
ScottG
August 19, 2009 02:53Very nice capacitor grouping!
Question: what is “sweet”? I can understand the clarity and definition is superior with the teflon capacitor, but I’m not quite “getting” what is superior with the better paper and oils. More 3d imaging? Better harmonic saturation?
The one capacitor that probably should have been included was the Jupiter condenser capacitor (..despite tempo electrics marginal rating). I wouldn’t be surprised if it was very similar to the paper tube Jensen copper while being about half the cost.
Here are some additional links:
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/300B.htm
http://www.dhtrob.com/impressies/jupiter_en.shtml
http://www.dhtrob.com/impressies/super_e_cap_en.shtml
http://www.vhaudio.com/21capacitorshootout.pdf
Again, thank you very much for the testing!
Jimmy Auw
August 19, 2009 09:32Hi ScottG,
It’s a little bit difficult to define “sweet” by word (perhaps due to my limited vocab in English). I think we can also use “warm” or “mellow” (but not “dull”), which you can “taste” the lips, tongue, even singer’s breathe when singing. I think this refers to better harmonic saturation also. Like comparing a 300B tube vocal vs solid state vocal. Perhaps with this you can understand what do I mean by “sweet”.
We can’t make a general assumption about all Paper-In-oil Caps, since not all of them have similar sound. Let’s say Audio Note vs Jensen Paper-In-Oil. Even they both same Paper-In-Oil, but Jensen has better high frequency tones, while perhaps Audio Note has even “sweeter” vocal. More different if you try Jensen Paper Tube or Duelund.
I have tried Jupiter once… but this caps had gone away long ago (I sold it to my friend). Perhaps just not my cup of tea. If I could recall my memory correctly, the tones of this Jupiter is between Audio Note Copper and Jensen “classic” Copper. To Jensen Paper Tube? I can’t confirm, but I don’t think so.
And as my caveat has been written, the result my subject to the listener preference. YMMV.
Thanks for the links.
ScottG
August 19, 2009 13:36Thank you for the reply Jimmy!
I can understand that 300B vs. solid state (..well, good solid state).
You could well be correct about the Jupiter capacitor. Note though that their materials/mechanical formulation has changed (..though for all I know it could be worse).
http://www.jupitercondenser.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=34&Itemid=60
Anyway, again a big thank you!
(BTW, loved the use of the CD cases for the switch face-plate.)
Jimmy Auw
August 19, 2009 13:51Dear ScottG,
Thanks for your comments.
I have moved your comments to here:
http://jimmyauw.com/2009/08/18/extreme-capacitors-battle-2nd-session/
Just to make the discussion easier to be followed.
Thank you.
Face
September 11, 2009 02:14In reference to your recent cap comparisons. You should give the Claritycap ESA a try as a coupling cap. It doesn’t compare to Duelund of course, but it has a nice warm tone to it and is very affordable. They’re also very compact in size. For a little more transparency and a little more high end tilt, the Claritycap MR is also a great coupling cap. Both are also just as impressive in speaker crossovers.
Jimmy Auw
September 11, 2009 09:12Hi Face,
Thanks for your information. Too bad when I bought all caps from PCX, they didnt carry ClarityCap. Here in my country (Indonesia), hardly to find a good caps. So I need to buy overseas. From your description, I think the ESA could be similar to Jensen. But if I could recall my brain correctly, the MR also quite expensive.
Thanks.
Jimmy Auw
September 11, 2009 09:23Hi Face,
In the future, please post it here:
http://jimmyauw.com/2009/08/18/extreme-capacitors-battle-2nd-session/
Not in this about page. Just to simplify the discussion.
Thanks.
ericcm
September 12, 2009 01:45dear jimmy, i hope you can help me with my problem. i own a konzert ks-8w subwoofer(this is the only sub i can afford)but unfortunately the toroidal transformer was burnt, i forgot the unit to turn off after listening a number of songs. it just stays on for almost one day. since in our place there was no support from konzert, so i opt to buy an ei type transformer since there is also no available toroidal transformer here. the rating of ei is 18v-0-18v, 3Amp. the rating of thr toroidal trans is 17.5v-0-17.5v, i don’t know the ampere rating but it has 220VA printed. now my problem comes in here, all relevant connection to the transformer was already done by soldering. but when i turn on the switch, the fuse would suddenly blow. i would replaced it again and still it would blow. what is supposed the problem? i hope you can find time answering me. i was really thankful i come across on your website. than you and god bless. eric
Kevin Little
November 3, 2009 07:17I happen to have a black plate RCA 12b4a NOS tube and 3 NOS 6bq5/EL84 tubes. Are you interested in them to purchase?
stenor
January 1, 2010 04:29Hello Jimmy I’ve been reading your journal/articles/blog..? with great interest for some time. And now I’m looking to take advantage of your experience (mwahaha) *evil laugh*. Well, that is if you’ll allow it. I’m making psu for some nxV300 modules (aussieamplifiers) and aiming for 60-100k uf per channel, toroid +-500va (dual mono). I need advice on caps to use, they shouldn’t be ultra expensive, but they could be “a little expensive” if that give much improvement.
So, you have any good advice? (oh, and they should be about 100v 8-15k uf range)
Jimmy Auw
January 1, 2010 22:29You can try Jensen 4-pole.
Thanks.
Nico
January 27, 2010 01:40halo pak jimmy, punya koleksi tube2 12at7 ecc81 801 dan 12bh7 gk? sy lg cari bbrp yg cocok. please email balik ya. tq
Nico
January 27, 2010 01:41nicohansamu at gmail dot com
Jimmy Auw
January 27, 2010 09:32Tidak ada Pak.
Thanks.
LPark
February 12, 2010 03:08Jimmy, can I get your comments on Mr. X’s RS241 amplifier? I’ve been looking to go for one, and I was interested in getting it made by tube lovers indonesia… pls email me at lindenpark at gmail dot com, thanks!!!
Jimmy Auw
February 12, 2010 23:10Hi,
If you are on the way of 300B or 2A3, then this RS241 should be on the end of your journey.
Thanks.
handy siloam
March 1, 2010 19:04pak jimmy nomor hp nya berapa ?
Jimmy Auw
March 1, 2010 22:55Hi,
Untuk keperluan apa Pak?
Thanks.
deco
March 16, 2010 10:46iya pak minta no telp atau id ym atau msn nya deh…
pengen nanya2 componen or all about musick
Jimmy Auw
March 16, 2010 13:42Japri aja bro.
Thanks.
Audionorth
March 28, 2010 12:52When are you going to give us your impressions of the new V-Cap compared to the old (ie the CuTF vs the TFTF?)
Thanks,
M-
Jimmy Auw
March 28, 2010 16:14I think the CuTF has limited capacitance for now? If I could recall my brain correctly, the max capacitance is 0.33uF? While my TFTF is 0.47. Not really a nice comparison.
Thanks.
Sergey
April 20, 2010 03:27Hi.
Jimmy (and anyone who can advice), i got a quite inappropriate question. As it is the only Indonesian site in the world I know, maybe you can give me a lead.
Dont’t you know some local site where I can buy some kilo’s of REAL PALM SAGO PEARLS? Maybe some on-line grossery or just discussion boards with English speaking people where I could order a bit of this.
Hopefully, it wasn’t too stupid 🙂
Thanks.
P.S. My Altec 5021 mod doing fine. Now building a tube hea-damp.
Ramon
April 22, 2010 23:25Hi Jimmy, i am one of your avid web site readers and i love to visit your web site. What do you think about the impamp? Do you have any idea for a small pre amp and recommendation for bookshelf speaker for it?
http://www.impamp.com/
best regards
Ramon
Jimmy Auw
April 22, 2010 23:44Hi Ramon,
Never heard that one, so hardly to comment. But if some rumors on the diyaudio are correct, then this is a nice stuff.
No need preamp I believe, just with your source volume control (like PC Sound Card or iPod or CDP). Can try passive attenuator also.
For the speaker, I got no idea. Perhaps a DIY with 3″ like Tangband?
Thanks.
Ramon
April 26, 2010 13:20Thanks Jimmy for giving me hints of having a passive attenuator. I discovered a supplier
http://luminousaudio.com/axiom/rca.html
Any comment? I like to drive the mini tube amp with a cd player source. It looks like they need to know system spec before install the resistor.
My imp amp tube input have -20db consumer to +4db pro level adjustable trimmers.
By the way, the imp amp tube video is
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=40qi4MFthvE&feature=related
Best regards and thanks
Ramon
Harywanto
July 3, 2010 14:14Plesae give us quoatation :
– Capasitor 8uF 1000 VAC
Qty : 6 pc
Jimmy Auw
July 4, 2010 20:09I’m sorry, I’m not a seller. You can try to find in local electronic shop or online shop.
Thanks.
sid
July 5, 2010 14:00Hi Jimmy,
Quite an exhaustive plethora of information here. Very impressed by your passion for electronics on the inside of the musical boxes, which actually makes or break the music.
AA) Jim, i need your feelers on Elma &/or Shallco switches. I have picked a Promitheus Signature 2 box TVC version. I have gone ahead with & in past have had experience of hearing a Shallco but never and Elma.
Could it be possible to share some details, if you have been able to compare them both ever.
BB) What possibly could be added to a TVC passive-pre to make it sound more huge in all possible respects. Considering we is being used for now it C-core transformer, Elma switches, copper plates etc. (You can avoid this question if its vague to reply back)
This is the only pic i could get of it – http://upload.review33.com/images/200905/200905232228539455.jpg (its a double box design housing a single C-core transformer)
Also, this one is theie reference version – http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=p788lnpq7pujjr9mv097i7bekoheu8ga&action=gallery;sa=view;id=20785 (This one is a single box dual-core variant with smaller c-cores into one)
Anyway, thanks for your time.
Best Wishes
Sid
..
Jimmy Auw
July 7, 2010 16:31Hi Sid,
I think Shallco should be higher grade compared to Elma. Or you can go with Seiden for the ultimate one.
I think the problem with most TVC is with the output. I would suggest to add at least an active buffer circuit, not just the passive TVC circuit itself.
Or at least, you must know exactly to what device (its impedance spec) which match your TVC, to make sure your TVC will perform well with the device connected to its output.
Thanks.
moektie
August 13, 2010 11:13Pak, minta ijin buat nyantumin blognya di tempatku ya..
Auw Jimmy
August 13, 2010 23:28Silakan bro…
Thanks.
Cuni
September 6, 2010 02:04Sir Jimmy, as you can see, after my mods i still come here for some advice/doubts ! you’re my source for audio knowledge.
So this time is : I’m thinking about creating a party for m friend etc and i was wondering if i could mix my sound system with my brothers.
So a computer would be the source of audio, then a creative xmod(pre amp), then the Altec lansing(amp) , then i would like to attach both my speakers and my brothers both in the same “slot” of altec lansing subwoofer.
this maybe it isnt possible but i would like to understand why, or what kind of criteria is used to calculate this stuff etc.
Any links for information is apreciated Jimmy
Thank you so much, big hug from Portugal : )
Auw Jimmy
September 6, 2010 20:40Hi Cuni,
All you need is to buy a splitter. So from your x-mod, you can connect to your Altec and your brother’s speaker at the same time.
Let me know if what you need is different than my idea.
Thanks.
Cuni
September 7, 2010 04:04yo!
Sir Jimmy, your idea is the perfect one , i wonder why i didnt thought about it…..anyway my inicial idea was to conect both speakears, mine(2) and my bro(2), to the alte lansing sub….i understand its against the rules, but i want to know why.
Thanks Jim
Auw Jimmy
September 7, 2010 09:27Hi Cuni,
By connecting all the speaker to Altec sub, I assume your idea is to have 2 speakers connected to the left output from Altec sub, and 2 speakers connected to right output from Altec sub, right? So you will have 4 speakers + 1 sub.
Btw, your brother’s speaker is passive or active one?
If your brother’s speaker is active one, definitely you shouldn’t do this. You should follow my previous suggestion.
If your brother’s speaker is passive one, you must check the total impedance first (your brother speaker + your Altec satellite). By combining two speakers on one output (from left or right channel), you must sum the total impedance of both speakers connected and see if they are still in range with the Altec’s amplifier output specification. Otherwise, you may damage Altec’s amplifier inside. But I also not suggest this way, unless you know what you are doing.
Thanks.
William
September 11, 2010 17:56Hallo Pak Jimmy,
I’m so glad to have found your website (from Google). Very informative and inspiring 🙂
Would you kindly tell a bit about your system? I just started learning about the wonderful world of DIY, my system consists of modded Marantz CD94 transport outputting I2S to my DAC, custom TDA1541a double crown tube DAC, JLTi EL34 (http://www.customanalogue.com/jlti_el34.htm) with Telefunken PCC88 and Philips brown base double D getter, a pair of Quad 21L2 (to be upgraded to horns setup, either Axiom 80 or Tannoy HPD 385) and a pair of Altecs 515C.
I’ll be visiting Indonesia next month and I’m so keen to know about DIY world there. Thank you.
Happy listening,
William
Auw Jimmy
September 11, 2010 21:25Hi Pak William,
Currently, I’m “building” my system. Most of the time before, I only put them on the desk, never ending experimenting from CDP to speaker. But now I’m starting to settle them one by one. Lot of funds been spent without a real result sometime makes me feel guilty. It takes time to settle down all these things, just enjoy it.
You have a nice setup. Do you visit ID for vacation or … ?
Thanks.
William
September 11, 2010 22:21That’s correct Pak Jimmy, for vacation, been living in down under for a while, it’ll be my first time coming back to my home country after several years, really miss my family and friends there…
About building the system, well aren’t we all the same (I don’t have such expertise as yours though), I just started playing around with components such as Jensen, Duelund, Black Gate, military PIO caps, etc etc… Very true that we have to spend some hard earned cash to experiment things, I’ve been lucky enough to meet some people in here which got vast experience and expertise in this wonderful hifi world. Basically, I’ve been learning from them and I’ve also found my reference system here so I don’t have to waste so much money experimenting stuff.
I’m hoping to learn more and I would really like to meet DIYers, hifi and music lovers back in Indonesia. So if you happen to know any hifi clubs in Jakarta, would you please let me know? It would be great if we can keep in touch and someday meet up as well.
Have a good day.
Cheers,
William
Auw Jimmy
September 12, 2010 12:59Hi William,
Yes we have some local mailing-list for this audio and also have some local DIY gathering. You can join if you are interested, at [email protected].
If you are lucky enough, perhaps you can join our gathering (every 2-3 months usually).
Btw, where are you located now?
Thanks.
William
September 13, 2010 17:16Hi Pak Jimmy,
Please contact me by email if you don’t mind, I am uncomfortable sharing my details on the net.
Thanks for the link, and yeah I would really love to join the gathering.
Cheers,
William
Auw Jimmy
September 13, 2010 22:09Hi Pak William,
Feel free to join the mailing list directly. Send empty email to [email protected]
See you there.
Thanks.
Wang Du
October 4, 2010 14:33Hallo Pak Jimmy,
Saya ada masalah dengan meter tube tester, dimana bisa contact bapak? Email atau telepon. THanks
Auw Jimmy
October 4, 2010 18:39Saya sudah jawab via email.
Thanks.
herry
October 13, 2010 21:12jensen 470uf 450v sy minat pa trims
Auw Jimmy
October 14, 2010 14:42Silakan kontak saya via email ke [email protected]
Thanks.
beryl
November 29, 2010 00:08Will you have a way to contact jason liu 劉英似?
Roger
December 17, 2010 20:04Hi Jimmy – weird question out the blue from someone you never met. I been trying to find a local agent (I live in Cape Town) for Sanwa multimeters and failed – or even to find schematic on the Net. I see you use one… (you can see where this is going)…
Would you have a burst of shiny happy goodwill to open yours and tell me what the little pot is for the 0ohm adjust knob? I damaged mine, removed it to replace, then lost it :(((
It’s the YX360TRF…
Would -really- appreciate it…
Auw Jimmy
December 17, 2010 23:49Hi Roger,
I dont understand? What do you want to know?
Thanks.
Roger
December 19, 2010 19:31Don’t worry, found the old bit and got a trim pot close enough in shape to bodge a plan.
I just wanted to know what the adjustment pot component was to find an equivalent.
But all fixed now.
Tom Costigan
February 4, 2011 20:24Hello Jimmy,
Can you please send my email, tomcostigan (at) aol (dot) com, to Bill Eccher ? I would like to talk with him about a Hichok 539C tester. Thanks a ton.
All The Best !!
Tom
Auw Jimmy
February 4, 2011 23:46Hi Tom,
Sent to Bill. Maybe he will contact you shortly.
Thanks.
Will
March 20, 2011 18:59Hi Jimmy,
I’m living in Jakarta and keen to learn/build some dyi audio but I’m stuck finding shops to buy gear, parts etc. Can you recommend any?
btw, great site you have here.
Thanks,
Will
Auw Jimmy
March 20, 2011 22:51Hi Will,
You can start at Glodok, or some online shop around.
Thanks.
Denny
May 7, 2011 15:41pak jimmy, mohon informasi kalau ada komunitas gainclone di semarang. mungkin pak Jimmy punya referensi. terima kasih
Auw Jimmy
May 7, 2011 20:38Halo Pak Denny,
Coba cek ke forum solfegio atau milis elpop-audio.
Thanks.
nick
June 16, 2011 02:41This is funny. Check out the pics. Duelunds resistor is nothing more than a 50 cent Faber Castel 5H pencil lead, which doesn’t even have much carbon in it. A 5B has more carbon. This is pure graphite and has no silver in it at all.
The pics can be found at the following website address. Apparently, this site won’t let me post a link so You’ll have to put in the www before it.
hifiwigwam.com/showthread.php?46799-Duelund-What-do-you-get-for-the-obscene-money
Auw Jimmy
June 16, 2011 10:30Hi Nick,
To be honest, I can see long time ago that they use graphite things inside the resistor (well everyone could see it inside the “bamboo” hole which covers the resistor). If you ever read Troel Gravesen website, he also ever mentions about the usage of such technique.
For this Duelund and Faber Castel things, I also have read around end of last year (or early this year). But I didn’t pay a lot of attention on it.
I have the standard and the CAST one. For the CAST one, as they “cast” it with something, so what’s inside probably not clear enough. But I assume they are the same materials, except additional casting process.
I bought them around $20 or less (on discount session I think, few years ago from PCX). For this amount, I think the cost is still reasonable. I’m not on Duelund side, but making the resistor (removing the wood from the Faber Castel without breaking the graphite is also not an easy job), then must connect it to the wire (which not solderable on the graphite side), make the bamboo cover, etc, probably won’t be easy if you do DIY. Even if I knew about this earlier, I prefer to spend $15-20 to buy the finished one, guarantee to work, and no risk. Sometime DIY also nice, but I’ve never DIY on component parts due to higher risk – yet.
Some other foil based resistor like S102 or the higher end model, TX2575, also quite pricey. I don’t think the raw material could be that expensive to.
You also can see thousand $$$ for a CD Player which based on CD-Pro2 which we know the cost is less than $1K or even less than 500$. Why don’t make by ourselves? Guido Tent from TentLabs also makes his DIY CD Player, but the price also not cheap. I think this is the “school fee” that we have to pay in order to respect their design and creation (and you just sit back, give your credit card number, and wait them to be delivered). If it sounds bad, definitely they will have bad reputation from the customer, sooner or later 🙂
So my opinion is, just take it or leave it. If you can make it better and cheaper, the market is wide open for you to do it 🙂 Perhaps somebody got idea with 5B and more carbon? Then do comparison with Duelund one, publish on DIYAudio, AA, Audiogon, etc? Why not? But as in most business does, if you can make it better, I’m quite sure you will sell it even more expensive, right? 🙂
Thanks.
Riannair
June 18, 2011 17:53pak jimmy kok bikin pcbnya bisa rapi begitu ya, mirip buatan pabrik. triknya gimana itu ? kalo berkenan boleh di share buat para pemula.
Auw Jimmy
June 19, 2011 11:00Halo,
PCB yang mana nih?
Thanks.
Riannair
June 20, 2011 18:02Itu pak Jim, yang PCB tampil di artikel “AD1865 I2S Input PCB”. Sepertinya itu dual layer ya pak ?
Auw Jimmy
June 20, 2011 22:31Benar dual layer.
Post komen-nya di sana saja Pak, jangan di postingan “About”, supaya tidak bingung.
Thanks.
Luis Nino de Rivera
August 20, 2011 08:39hello and good day to you jimmy, first of congrats you truly posses a talent very few have in this wonderfull art. Im new to the hobby and wish to make the best quality amp I possibly can not only because my tube amp recently passed away (effing light outs) but also since this will gount as my final proyect in college this semester lol so any help, schematics, pieces, parts, walkthroughs or simple support will be forever thanked. oh and a good question, can one build a 7.1 surround sound system based on single ended amps, preamps and power? with kind and warm regarths uour fan luis
Auw Jimmy
August 20, 2011 20:24Hi Luis,
What kind of amp that you have in mind?
‘a best amp’ wont hint us to something… 🙂
Thanks.
Jessie
November 6, 2011 06:05Hi Jimmy,
Can I burn-in a Mundorf SGO caps in a CD player by just playing the CDP without connecting the CDP to an amp?
Auw Jimmy
November 6, 2011 23:53Hi Jessie,
Better if you connect it to the amp…
Thanks.
stephen
November 29, 2011 13:58hi Jimmy – I am an expat in JKT and one of my Altec Lansing speakers not working – I think it’s the jack /wiring… getting that all too familiar ‘buzz’ sound – can you recommend a shop where I can take it get to repaired… I tried to take it apart but can’t find any screws!! (alamak!) looks like it’s molded one piece… I am sure a repair shop can sort it…..any suggestions???
THANKS!!
Auw Jimmy
November 29, 2011 21:07Hi Stephen,
Not quite sure if you can find a place to repair as you are an expat (mostly such places located in not to comfort area).
Thanks.
Sam
December 11, 2011 05:55Hi Jimmy,
I enjoy reading your blog.
I have done upgrades to my speakers crossovers. Used Obbligato copper caps, and Janzten Cross cap in other speakers, replacing the Solen.
Ive been using a solder, i cant even find much information on the internet. Its Goot SF-A0410 (3% silver, 0.5%copper, rest tin). It dries super fast, components sound fine to me.
I am curious about Mundorf Suprememe with 9.5% silver content, you gave it a nice review. In the past, ive also used WBT-0800.
Thanks
regards
Sam
Auw Jimmy
December 11, 2011 21:09Hi,
I start to switch to Mundorf Supreme for some application, but still have WBT around 250gram on hand… 🙂 Both are good…
Thanks.
Denis
December 28, 2011 01:19Hi Jimmy
I’m thinking of tweaking my Audible Illusions preamp’s power supply caps. It uses 2 4700 uf/50V and a 10,000 uf/10V. Seems have to use electrolytics given the large capacitance, even though I’ve heard that file and foil caps are better. What do you think of the Mundorf MLytic?
http://www.eltim.eu/data/mediablocks/MUNDORF%20MLytic%20catalog%20july11.pdf
Any suggestion would be much appreciated.
Denis
Auw Jimmy
December 29, 2011 00:38Hi Denis,
There are several good brands electrolytic. Mundorf is one of them.
Film/Foil caps is not always better than electrolytic…
Thanks.
Bryan
January 11, 2012 21:21Hello Jimmy
First of all hope you have a good 2012.
I’m one of the fans of your site. I’m wondering if you have 2 pcs of Black Gate 100uf+100uf 500V for sell.
Kindly let me know pls.
Best regards
Bryan
Auw Jimmy
January 11, 2012 21:44Hi Bryan,
Yes I have some for my private use, but at this moment (also due to the market pricing out there), I dont think I will sell it.
Sorry. Have a good 2012 for you to.
Thanks.
Ryan
February 18, 2012 11:52Pak, pernah pengalaman reparasi CDP – Rotel RCD 1072? atau punya kontak service center nya?
kasusnya: tiba2 no disc. padahal tiap minggu masih rutin di-play.
thanks.
Auw Jimmy
February 18, 2012 21:06Hi Pak Ryan,
Coba bawa ke tempat belinya saja. Mungkin mereka bisa bantu.
Thanks.
Johnw
February 22, 2012 11:41Hi Jimmy,
I was wondering which one of these 3 you choose for coupling caps in a tube amp: Clarity cap MR, V-cap cuTF, or Duelund Alexander.
I’m leaning towards either the V-cap or the Alexander. But I admit I’ve never heard either one, just read about them.
Auw Jimmy
February 22, 2012 21:56Hi John,
I would spend more for Duelund CAST 🙂
Thanks.
John
February 22, 2012 23:04Jimmy,
I would too, but both the funds and space in my amps are too limited. 😉
If you had to choose one (CC MR, V-cap cuTF, or Alexander) which would it be and why?
Auw Jimmy
February 22, 2012 23:48Hi John,
I dont think VCap is a cheap choice anyway? 🙂
Btw, it’s not easy to decide, as those three mostly in different league and I have no idea where you gonna put that and what is your preference in terms of the ‘music’ itself. Giving suggestion at this stage is merely a ‘guessing game’ and I dont think it’s a wise choice 🙂
Thanks.
John
February 23, 2012 11:00I think I’ll probably spend more and step up to Duelund VSF.
The Vcap is much cheaper in my size (.22uF).
Auw Jimmy
February 23, 2012 22:22Hi John,
It depends on your system…
Thanks.
Jacky
March 4, 2012 05:54Hi Jimmy, your blog is truly very inspiring and informative. I like your work. I like to seek your advice regarding on cdp mod. My cdp power caps are 4700uf 25v. But if I change to 10000uf 25v, does it help to improve the sound quality? I not intending to change the clock or some drastic mods. My cdp is Marantz CD6000ose KI. Thanks for the help.
Auw Jimmy
March 4, 2012 15:55Hi Jacky,
The important is to change with a better quality one. Size doesn’t really matter in here (at least not as main priority).
Thanks.
Yudi
April 15, 2012 15:10Hello everyone. kindly need your info.
what toroidal transformer type for altec mx5021?
thank you 🙂
Auw Jimmy
April 15, 2012 21:24Hi Yudi,
As far as I know, MX5021 uses standard EI transformer, not Toroid. Also if I could recall my memory correctly, MX5021 needs two secondary windings with 2 different voltage. Maybe not easy to get toroid with that spec. Btw, it would be better if you post under MX5021 related entry, not on this “About” page 🙂
Thanks.
Ryan
May 18, 2012 21:48Hey Jimmy, I just recently got my brother’s MX5021. He told me he was having some problem with them and they don’t produce any sound. I anyways got them to check. I have no experience with speakers. I was just wondering if they can be repaired. The woofer is able to power up the control pod and the speakers but there is no sound. The satellites work fine when I connect them to some other player but they don’t work when connected to MX5021 woofer. I got the woofer checked with local electrician and he said all the internal wiring is fine. Any clue?
Auw Jimmy
May 18, 2012 21:58Hi Ryan,
I believe your local electrician could have some skill checking electronics. So he would be the best guy you can find for good advise. Hard to “remotely” find the problem from here, but I suspect your amp chipset could have some problem.
Thanks.
csr casio
May 21, 2012 11:34selamat siang pak Jimmy….
Bisakah saya mendapatkan contact person bapak atau email bapak untuk pembicaraan tentang pembuatan article produk kami..
regards
csr casio
Zak
September 17, 2012 18:56Hi Jimmy,
I’m a British expat living and working here, I have a passion in Audio mostly Theatre Systems however am building a 2 channel rig. Was wandering where are you located? I am located in Bintaro Sector 3 and would like join your events?
Didik Wiryawan
September 18, 2012 08:18Hi Zak,
It would be very nice if you can join our even which we call GUYUB AUDIO BINTARO. Jimmy Auw is my (our) best friend, he is also my teacher for tweaking. You are most welcome to join on the next even on Sept 29, 2012 at my home : Jl. Titihan 2 HG12A/14, Bintaro Sektor 9 (just in front of “SEKOLAH JEPANG”). My email : [email protected].
Well, thank you Bung Jimmy !
Auw Jimmy
September 18, 2012 13:40Hi Zak,
The host of the event is Mr Didik Wiryawan. His home is not too far away from your place, I think.
Thanks.
Kalvin
September 20, 2012 18:34hai bro jimmy,
saya minta email nya boleh ? mau tanya2 sedikit tentang modding car audio amp..
Anto Daryanto
November 14, 2012 16:35Pak Jimmy
Kebetulan saya mau membuat integrated amplifier dengan minimal 3 input dan pre-out untuk subwoofer. Apakah ada rekomendasi paket lengkap dan dimana belinya ?
Thanks sebelumnya
Auw Jimmy
November 17, 2012 22:49Hi Pak Anto,
Ini maksudnya paket lengkap barang jadi kah? Kalo seperti itu umumnya bisa didapat di amplifier integrated. Mereknya ada banyak macam, harga juga bervariasi sekitar 2jutaan ke atas biasanya.
Kalo rakitan, rasanya bisa cari di Glodok.
Terima kasih.
Didit Cahyono
November 26, 2012 05:26Pak Jimmy,
Numpang tanya. Saya mau mods JP200 versi analog metric.
http://www.audioasylum.com/forums/tubediy/messages/17/170573.html
Masih di perdebatkan capacitor mana yg baik utk electronics menurut Pak Jimmy
Jupiter HT or Ampohm Aluminium Foil?
tks
Auw Jimmy
November 26, 2012 16:05Hi Pak Didit,
Tergantung karakter suara sekarang seperti apa dan karakter apa yang Anda suka nantinya.
Thanks.
Didit
December 2, 2012 05:29Pak Jimmy,
Ada recomend tempat utk beli kit amplifier / pre-amp / PCB di daerah HARCO?
Cuma tau tempat Bowo Electronics sama Ayung.
Kalau tdk keberatan bisa PM saya ke email?
Terima kasih
Auw Jimmy
December 6, 2012 21:53Hi Pak Didit,
Ya dua tempat itu yang paling lengkap kalo mencari kit yang cukup berkelas sih Pak.
Kalo yang pasaran, bisa ke Bogor (di arah belakang).
Thanks.
Mike Ting
December 20, 2012 20:57Nice blog, om Jimmy. Keep the great work up! 🙂
Auw Jimmy
December 21, 2012 00:08Thanks Mike. You have a nice one to.
Roiko Masaka
January 10, 2013 05:17Salaam Pak Jimmy yg terhormat,
Saya senang sekali membaca cerita2 Anda tentang elektronik dan alat suara yg audiophile. Anda pinter sekali dengan semuanya, tingkat cerita di blog ini tinggi sekali. Saya sedikit cemburu dengan alat audio yg high-end Anda punya 😉 Mungkin nanti saya bisa belinya juga, tapi saya harus bekerja keras dulu (saya masih muda, 26 tahun). Kalau saya di Indonesia lagi (mampir dgn pamanku), boleh saya mendengar system hi-end Anda? Saya ingin tahu sekali!
Salaam hangat!
Roiko
dari Amsterdam
Auw Jimmy
January 10, 2013 09:26Hi Pak Roiko,
System saya biasa2 saja. Tidak ada yang istimewa. Karena hobi saya otak atik, maka kadang2 system saya tidak bisa bunyi karena keseringan dioprek dan oprekannya belum selesai. Kalo Bapak tertarik di bidang audio dan DIY ini, saran saya join ke milis [email protected] dan [email protected]. Keduanya cukup banyak diisi oleh DIY berpengalaman dan sering sharing berbagai hasil karya membernya. Kadang kita kumpul2 setiap beberapa bulan sekali sekedar untuk mendengarkan hasil oprekan. Saya masih tidak ada apa2nya dibandingkan member di milis tersebut. Oh ya, milis tersebut juga isinya orang Indonesia semua.
Terima kasih.
Anonymous
March 25, 2013 19:18Jimmy, why no RSS on the blog? 🙁
Auw Jimmy
March 26, 2013 12:11Hi,
Yes this blog support RSS, by default from WordPress. You can choose one of below link.
http://www.jimmyauw.com/feed/rss2/
http://www.jimmyauw.com/feed/rdf/
Thanks.
Chaucer Chang
March 30, 2013 16:13Hello Jimmy,
Are you interested in building power amp for other people?
Chaucer
Auw Jimmy
March 30, 2013 16:47Hi Chang,
I would like to, but unfortunately, I have no such experience (and time) to do so, at least at present time. Really sorry for that. I think you can build yourself and as usual, you can always ask me (if I can answer).
Thanks.
Too Tall
April 1, 2013 22:16I work at a nuclear plant where we use the Sencore LC102 to test caps prior to installation. I have called the tech rep from the manufacturer but have received incomplete answers. Here are my questions. When checking leakage on a cap it gives you readings that flucuate between < 1 micro amp (bad) and then to 0000 (good). When do you really know if it is good or not? Same with dielectric absorbtion. It will read 1 or 2 and if you hold the button long enough it will read 0. It also flucates for ESR. Which reading is acceptable? If you can answer these questions it would be greatly appreciated.
Auw Jimmy
April 2, 2013 00:17Hi Timothy,
Sorry, I have no idea. Sencore tech should be your best resort.
Thanks.
Azuma
July 27, 2013 01:45salam kenal mas jimmy,
sy boleh minta sarannya mas
sy mau buat speaker diy 2.1 yg setara logitech z623 atau hifi swan m50w, bisa dibantu mas,
komponen2 apa aja yg sy butuhkan dan driver2nya
terima kasih
Auw Jimmy
July 27, 2013 15:14Hi Mas Azuma,
Saran saya mending beli Logitech atau Swan-nya saja. Bikin sendiri belum tentu bisa lebih murah, dan risiko kegagalan yang tidak kecil.
Terima kasih.
Azuma
July 27, 2013 19:37oow gitu ya mas jimmy,
setidaknya sy bs minta saran untuk buat speaker 2.1 yg murah meriah mas jimmy terutama komponen2nya diluar speaker, krn sy sdh punya speaker LG bekas dvd player 5.1
terima kasih
Auw Jimmy
July 27, 2013 20:37Hi Mas Azuma,
Saran saya, beli saja speaker yang sudah jadi, macam Logitech atau Swan tadi. Nanti tinggal dioprek dikit. Kalo bikin dari nol, rasanya kerepotannya tidak begitu sebanding, kecuali mau bikin yang bagusan sekalian (which is cost-nya tidak akan murah).
Terima kasih.
voila
September 6, 2013 00:20om jimmy ada bengkel atau toko gak om?pengen mod speaker nih,,bisa di bantu gak om?tolong bales k email ya..thanks..
Auw Jimmy
September 6, 2013 14:56Hi,
Maaf tidak ada. Saya hanya hobi saja. Kalo sekedar konsultasi by email, selama saya bisa bantu sih tidak masalah.
Thanks.
marcos
October 10, 2013 16:59Bro Jim…..
Mohon bantuannya…..
Newbie ingin up grade ic suara di naka mb9….
IC aslinya: 2100D JRC
Dengan features sbb:
-Single supply operation
-Operating Voltage (+/-1.0V – +/3.5V)
-Low saturation output voltage
-high slew rate (4V/us typ)
-Package Outline: DIP8
-Bipolar Technology
Mnrt Bro Jim IC apa yg bisa direct replace u up grade IC JRC tersebut?
pingin karakter yg analog,natural dan transparan.
Thanks Bro Jim…..
Sukses selalu……
Auw Jimmy
October 15, 2013 20:29Hi Pak Marcos,
Sulit untuk menentukan replacement yang cocok jika tidak tahu karakter system secara keseluruhan.
Secara teknis, seharusnya kompatibilitasnya cukup banyak dan tidak masalah sih.
Terima kasih.
Rudi Wijaya
October 18, 2014 19:19Ko Jimmy, mungkin pertanyaan w jauh dari masalah audio. Kalo mau belajar elektronika sampai gitu pandai seperti ko jimmy belajar dari mana aja ya? ada buku atau website rujukan? kalo berkenan w pengen ngobrol via email jg. Thanks ! 😀
Auw Jimmy
October 18, 2014 20:19Hi Bro Rudy,
Saya sama sekali jauh dari pandai. Masih perlu banyak belajar. Banyak yang jauh lebih jago dari saya.
Saya sendiri belajar dari buku, Internet, Youtube, dkk. Secara kamu bisa akses Internet, saya rasa kamu juga bisa belajar sendiri.
Terima kasih.
welly
November 5, 2014 21:31selamat malam pak Jimmy.
saya mau tanya nih capacitor jansen 0.47 uf 630v pio.
sepasang berapa y? dan bisa order kah ke pak jimmy.
Thx.
Cosmin
December 15, 2014 19:33Hello,
I read your posts related to Altec Lansing MX5021 and saw that you made some tuning to the system. I have also an MX5021 for a couple of years and I loving it. The issue is that a couple of days ago the satellites go silent and only the subwoofer still make some sounds.
I wonder if your have the electrical diagram of the system and can share it with me. I don’t want to give up on him and I want to repair it if it’s possible.
If you can help me please use the email from the comment.
Thanks,
Cosmin
Auw Jimmy
December 22, 2014 22:20Hi Cosmin,
Unfortunately I dont have any schematic.
Thanks.
Mursid
June 7, 2015 15:11Hi jimmy,
Saya tertarik dengan audio seperti anda, saya ingin mempelajari ini secara mendalam. Oleh karena itu saya ingin tahu tips untuk mempelajari elektronika secara mendalam dan mahir seperti anda. Can you tell me?
Auw Jimmy
June 7, 2015 22:38Hi Pak Mursid,
Saya tidak mahir2 amat, cuman tahu2 dikit saja.
Saran saya coba belajar dari buku atau Internet, atau join forum2 audio/diy. Dari situ saja kok. Kecuali Anda mau sekolah khusus elektronik. Itu lebih bagus lagi.
Terima kasih.
J
June 30, 2015 13:28Hi Jimmy
I have a General Radio Meter that I think needs repair. I have removed the meter from the unit. On the back side of the meter it has four terminals . I pair for an AC connection and the second pair for a DC connection.
Thank You
Auw Jimmy
July 4, 2015 22:45Hi,
I think that would be quite complicated to repair…
Thanks.
DoditW
August 22, 2015 13:01Hallo om Jimmy,
Sudah lama ga bersua nih. Saya sendiri sibuk ga sempet lagi main audio semenjak berumah tangga. Sementara ini hanya memanfaatkan yg sudah ada saja belum berfikir upgrade besar.
Bisa minta saran,
Quad 11L saya drive pake Arcam A85 player USB HifiMe DIY ESS Sabre via PC Desktop. sepertinya mati satu tweeternya.
Cari replacement nya sepertinya susah. Dulu pernah kena woofernya dan di upgrade oleh om Djon Welly.
Bisakah Anda memberi saran alternatif untuk mengganti tweeternya yang pas yang gampang ada di pasaran tentunya?
Apakah Vifa BC25TG15-04 1″ Textile harga 600rb cukup kah? Atau malah terlalu berlebih.
Ataukah alternatif lain yg ada di pasar yang lebih murah tapi cukup bagus sebagai pengganti?
Terimakasih.
Auw Jimmy
September 6, 2015 22:12Hi Pak Dodit,
Tidak disarankan untuk mengganti driver yang berbeda tanpa mengubah crossover. Atau dengan kata lain, sebaiknya gunakan tweeter aslinya (harus cari penggantinya).
Thanks.
Paul
January 8, 2016 04:04Hello,
Are you still stuck with your HP3561A?
What eprom and software version do you need? If i have the same version I can make a dump, you’ll need a blank chip and programmer to avoid sending stuff across the world.
Paul
E. Palazzo
January 12, 2016 02:31Hi Jimmy,
My Onkyo SE-90 pci has a problem on one channel, audio is (almost completely) gone, if I turn volume way up, I still can hear the sound very faintly and distorted.
Other channel is fine, and it´s not the cables.
Any indication on what the problem might be is greatly appreciated,
Auw Jimmy
January 13, 2016 12:25Hi,
It could be your opamp failed or your coupling caps. Need more detail check, though.
Thanks.
E. Palazzo
January 14, 2016 17:04OK, I know where to start looking now, thank you !
adhistya febryanto
March 15, 2016 00:37bro jimmy, mo tanya nih, soundcard essence stx saya tiba2 suaranya hilang, habis volume saya besarin ternyata suaranya ada tapi pecah2 parah dan patah2, suara di headphone juga jadi sangat pelan sekali, opamp udah saya ganti baru dan ternyata masih sama aja, kira2 kerusakannya dimana ya bro? board saya liat seksama ga ada tanda2 kebakar dan soundcard masih terdeteksi dengan mudah di pc… mohon bantuannya ya bro jimmy… soundcard kesayangan soalnya… hix2 :'(
Auw Jimmy
March 20, 2016 00:11Maaf Bro baru bales. Agak susah problemnya untuk ditebak, harus benar2 ditrace problemnya dimana.
Terima kasih.
alvin
May 16, 2016 01:32Pak mau nanya harga jensen 0.47 berapaan ya? Thanks
Bayu Dwi Arifianto
June 22, 2016 22:34Hi pak Jimmy,bisa saya lihat rangkain skematik
eugen vrsic
January 30, 2017 17:31Hi Jimmy,
just a question, do you think WE 274B and telefunken rgn 1054 rectifier can be interchangable?
I use at the moment EML 274B mesh plate but just a picture of mesh 1054 made me drooling…_)
Thanks a lot,
Eugen
Aldy
February 21, 2017 17:56YTH Bpk Jimmy,
Salam kenal sebelumnya, nama saya Aldy. Mohon maaf pak saya mau bertanya, meminta referensi dari bpk. Saya punya sedikit koleksi home audio vintage/klasik. Nilai nominal dari amplifier2, speaker2 ini mungkin tdk seberapa, tapi berarti buat saya. Bpk bisa mereferensikan kontak/teman bapak yg punya kompetensi, idealnya seperti bpk tentunya, yang bisa di percaya, dan mau menservis, reparasi dan bahkan merestorasi perangkat2 audio vintage/klasik. Mohon reply dr bpk ke email saya. Tksh sebelumnya.
kanto
March 7, 2017 15:44Hai Pak Jimmy,
Saya mohon saran bapak untuk service amplifer tabung , masalah yang timbul adalah bila power on langsung keluar suara mendesis.
Terimakasih ,
Salam
Kanto
Auw Jimmy
March 8, 2017 15:50Hi Eugen,
I think they have different filament voltage.
Thanks.
Auw Jimmy
March 8, 2017 15:50Hi Pak Aldy,
Wah kalo barang klasik saya kurang tahu ya Pak. Kalo sekedar repair saya rasa ada beberapa kenalan.
Thanks.
Auw Jimmy
March 8, 2017 15:51Pak Kanto,
Mesti dicek dulu sepertinya. Susah karena hiss bisa dari mana saja.
Thanks.
Jordi Iglesias
April 22, 2017 02:49Hello Jimmy, please lets me know were to buy ATP Quantum Disc and Schumann Resonator.
Thanks, Jordi
Auw Jimmy
April 22, 2017 22:58Hi Jordi,
The email should be there, on the article [email protected]
Thanks.
Clark
May 2, 2017 23:57Hi, Jimmy, how does your ‘No Name’ Capacitor go? Have you finished your comparison test?
Is there any plan to go for mass production?
Clark
May 3, 2017 00:02Hi, jimmy,
I am making a 8pcs PCM1704 DAC with I2S@HDMI input. Is there any transformer facility can make digital audio transformer for I2S?
Thanks
Auw Jimmy
May 3, 2017 20:02Hi Clark,
It might not go into mass production, I think.
Thanks.
andre
May 10, 2017 15:25Halo Pak,
bisa minta bantuan untuk trace (reverse-engineer) rangkaian dengan pcb dual layer?
ukuran pcb sekitar 4 x 6 cm, komponen smd.
kalau bisa, nanti saya kirim rangkaiannya dan biaya jasanya.
Terima kasih pak.
Manzur
May 19, 2017 11:58Hi Jimmy,
Your topic on “Inside Altec Lansing MX5021: Amplifier Mod” is the best article in the internet on how to modify the amp circuit.
I have a similar speaker system but has stopped working.
There is neither any sound from any satellite speakers nor from the sub woofer but noises come from only the right channel.
It would be a huge help if you tell where should I start to check for any faults, I cannot find any clue.
Waiting for your kind reply.
~Regards~
Manzur
Auw Jimmy
May 25, 2017 16:37Hi Pak,
Maaf, website ini hanya hobby saya saja dan saya tidak/belum menerima jasa komersil.
Terima kasih.
Auw Jimmy
May 25, 2017 16:38Hi Manzur,
Sending your speaker to local repairer would be best way.
Thanks.
Mahesh
August 26, 2017 18:30Hi
I read your article: http://jimmyauw.com/2014/08/17/repairing-broken-tymphany-full-range-driver-p830985/
I have Nokia Play 360 which contain this speaker. I want to fix it. I posted the question here: http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-3505096/fix-nokia-play-360-speakers.html
Can you comment what should I do?
Sulih kridotomo
December 28, 2017 17:40Mas jimmy untuk ramuan herbal yang untuk membersihkan pembuluh darah, seandainya langsung diminum satu sendok setiap pagi tanpa dicampur air hangat tidak apa apa kan ?
Trims jawaban nya ya mas .
Auw Jimmy
December 28, 2017 21:04Tidak apa-apa Pak.
Nguyen Trung
January 6, 2018 10:29Hi Jimi,
Cn you share me 1x AD1865 i2s input decorder PCB, of course i will pay, thanks
[email protected]
Yoshi
January 23, 2018 13:19Hi Jimmy,
I want “ATP Quantum Disc for Schumann Resonator”
How can I buy it?
How much is the price?
Yoshi
January 23, 2018 13:25Hi Jimmy.
I am interested in “ATP Quantum Disc for Schumann Resonator”
How much is the price?
Blueberryjam
April 9, 2018 15:39Hi Jimmy,
On your Korg MR-2000 articled you mentioned that there shouldn’t be any issue using a PATA-SATA convertor to upgrade the internal SSD to another disk.
My original hard drive failed, so I’m using a msata to 50 pin IDE adapter (the only one I could find) and a Samsung 860 evo drive. However I can’t get it to work. No matter how I format it, when I turn on the Korg I get an error saying the drive is not FAT32. I can then format it inside the Korg, but then it’s stuck on “working” and never actually formats. It doesn’t seem like the new drive/adapter are compatible with the Korg.
Would you have any tips I could use to make it work ?
Cheers.
Blue
MARC
June 13, 2018 20:36Hi Jimmy,
first of all thank for your hard for your blog, very usefull.
For me is very intresting the testing of outer caps foil, may i ask you how to realize that measurement ?, step by spep…
thank you indeed.
marc
Halls
July 19, 2018 04:01Hi, Jimmy,
What do you think of these Solen you mentioned in your post ?
I saw them mounted in a Zanden 6000 amplifier.
Any good ?
For future 845/211 project. Giant Solen MKP 51uF rated at 1500VDC!!!
Thank you,
Halls
Jimmy Auw
July 19, 2018 11:37Hi Marc,
It’s ok for its price level.
Thanks.
PK
September 12, 2018 07:00Hi Jimmy,
I am looking to purchase a state of the art mains power transformer for my DIY monoblock amplifiers. Currently, I have a Hammond power transformer which serves the output stage only (no filament, no driver stage). The problem is that the Hammond is buzzing mechanicallly and also has a 60 and 120 hz hum. So, hoping to find the highest quality mains power transformer 1780V @ 202mA for my GM70 tube output stage. Any thoughts on power transformers that you like / recommend?
Thanks, PK
Auw Jimmy
October 13, 2018 12:05Hi PK,
How state of the art you are referring to?
Thanks.
Gary Trautmann
January 4, 2019 21:54Hello Jimmy,
I am looking for details/schematic, any relevant details to you 6N1P tube buffer, assuming you had success with it, or another updated design.
Kind regards,
Gary
Fajar winata
August 16, 2019 13:18Jim kemana aje lu….
Boris
December 3, 2019 03:36Hello Jimmy,
I’ve read your article about Jensen 4-pole capacitors and kindly ask you to share your opinion regarding sonic difference between Jensen and Mundorf electrolityc caps. I would like to replace BHC caps in my preamp and monoblocks (both solid state) but can’t make a decition because of lack of information. I have 2 options for preamp (I would like to try 4 – pole caps because of it’s filtering effect):
1. Jensen Capacitor 15000uF 63Vdc 4-Pole
2. Mundorf MLytic AG+ MLGO+ 22000uF 63VDC (4 pole)
And I have only one option for power amps (because of size) – Jensen Radial electrolytic capacitor with screw terminal 22000µF 63 VDC.
I will highly appreciate if you describe sonic difference between 1 and 2 vs BHC and also about Jensen for monoblocks. I’m especially looking for natural vocal and deep (but solid) bass.
Sincerely,
Boris
Ferenc
April 1, 2020 18:57Hi Jimmy,
I see you have technically tested the J & K C-core HIB power transformer.
Can you tell me something how it sounds?
Building a SE amp using NOS Tungsol 7241 / 7242 graphite plate tubes, with 100W dissipation. I’m in dayly contact with Ken to specify the huge power/choke/output transformers required.
A few comments on musicality may help a lot.
Thanks: Ferenc
Aron
September 3, 2020 08:35Hi Jimmy,
I’m considering purchasing a Primrose audio toroidal transformer for a DIY power amp based Avondale Audio NCC220 modules. How did yours work out for you?
Thanks in advance,
Aron
Jose Oliveira
September 5, 2020 14:26Hi
My HP200lx have a big dark zone on the screen.
Can I do something about it?
Istvan Fulop
October 5, 2020 04:58Hi Jimmy
Can you send my some pictures of the Cayin CD17 inside modification?
Where did you soldered the jensen caps? I want to do the same, and the value of the caps too.
Thanks.
Regards. Istvan
Auw Jimmy
February 2, 2021 12:34Hi Istvan,
It was very long time ago. I dont have the unit anymore.
Sorry. Thanks.
Auw Jimmy
February 2, 2021 12:35Hi Jose,
Need to change the polarizer. It will be a bit too technical to do.
Thanks.
Auw Jimmy
February 2, 2021 12:36Hi Aron,
It’s good transformer. But I can’t compare with other as I dont have other with same spec. But it has good build quality and no issue after being used for years.
Thanks.
Auw Jimmy
February 2, 2021 12:37Hi Ferenc,
It’s really good sounding transformer. I suggest you go to J&K Facebook. A lot of people gives great feedback. Maybe good for your to take a look and get more feedback.
Thanks.
Auw Jimmy
February 2, 2021 12:40Hi Boris,
Sorry I missed your question. Jensen already shut down their operation. So your option might be between Mundorf or BHC.
Personal view, I like Jensen, more neutral sounding. But they are no more. Mundorf could be good alternate. Can’t really comment on BHC – I ever tried, but long time ago and not in serious occasion. Hardly recall this one. Sorry.
Thanks.
Raul Lopez Roman
April 26, 2021 17:28Hi Jimmy,
Fabulous web, very interesting.
I have soldered 22k an niobium to replace 180k to convert CF with ecc83 to ecc81.
Do u know, as you measure, any specific direction in AN resistors?
Thanks
Yee
December 14, 2021 00:33Jimmy, can I buy the 2sk170 x 4? Want to build a Pass B1 preamp. Thank you.
Auw Jimmy
August 25, 2022 15:16Hi Raul,
I dont hear specific orientation for this resistor. So I guess you will be just fine. Thanks.
Auw Jimmy
August 25, 2022 15:17Hi Yee, I’m so sorry, not really selling this at the moment. Thank you.
Gibson
August 30, 2022 12:48Hi Jimmy,
I saw your older post about the Sencore LC102. I’ve recently come into possession of one that required some extensive repair, however I’ve run into a bit of a snag. Resistors R67 and R68 on the leakage supply board (3000) seem to be completely absent from all available Sencore schematics and I removed them assuming that they would be there in order to replace them with newer, precision resistors.
Would it be at all possible for you to open yours up and check the value of these two? They’re right above C12. It’s be a huge help!
Best regards
Lsantista
September 20, 2022 22:28Hi Jimmy
This is the guy inquiring on YT over the transformers upgrades for the EK 8900. I’ve so much Id like to ask since Im 100% new to DIY and obvsiosly YT aint the best channel. Maybe you can see my email address together with this message and can send hello there. Or we can chat here of course.
My 8900 and 8550 will take several weeks still to arrive, but I cant even find good solder here in Brazil and trying to import. Also would like to ask regarding what flux/past you recommend and where.
Best
Admin
September 21, 2022 10:43Hi Lsantista,
I dont use any flux, just tin solder like WBT and Mundorf which has flux inside.
Thanks.
Jaffrie
October 10, 2022 15:38Hi Jimmy,
Thank you, been following your blogs for moons. Lol
Need advice pls, recently I chance upon a 300B driven by 2a3 via interstage trafo which was build by
Mr. Arif Wicaksono . Its functioning but condition is in a sorry state. I want to rebuild
the amp but no schema & am unable to locate Arif. Wonder if you happen to have any contact
with him. Would greatly appreciate if you could advice. Worse case scenerio is to strip everything
& rebuild with new circuitry but still using the Trafo units
Many thanks & apologies for troubling you
Admin
October 10, 2022 16:11Hi Jaffrie,
What I understand, Pak Arif no longer doing DIY stuff. But you still can find him in Facebook. I saw him posting some activities few weeks back.
Thanks.
Jennifer Edwards
December 24, 2022 18:20Hi Jimmy,
I Recently purchased a HICKOK 539B and came across your article about yours while searching for some information about them. So I thought I would ask if you have found out anything about my quest.
I am trying to determine how to set up my 539 to test valves that do not have selector settings published. I can easily find spec sheets about almost any valve, what I am seeking is a paper, article, or something explaining how to work backwards to the tester selector settings from tube specs.
If you could direct me to a source of how to accomplish this would be greatly appreciated.
Jenny In Yorkshire
Auw Jimmy
December 25, 2022 22:53Jenny,
I think you need to find the Service Manual, then you can “reverse engineer” the schematic. This should be able to give you a view on how those switches work, one by one.
Thanks.
David Neil Kristensen
February 3, 2023 04:54I have thought of making a simple preamp with 1 transistor but with god resistors and good capacitors.
http://www.circuitdiagram.org/audio_preamplifier.html
It is very simple, but I want it simple. I dont like many transistors in the signalway or other components.
Where will the best place for a stepped good volumen potentiomet be, before C2.
Do you think it can be used in a good HIFI setup ?
I dont need much amplication, maybe 6 or 10 db. Can I change the transistor, and to what ?
Please send me advice, I dont want to burn my power amplifiers !!!
Auw Jimmy
March 19, 2023 21:48Hi David,
I think you should put before C1 (before Input).
You cant expect too much from this circuit… Sorry.
Thanks.
Jimmy.