sir jimmy, can you furnish me the pin configuration
of altec lansing vs4121 9pins connector, because all the wire of my connectors are all cut off.
admirable blog. You are a technical freak using wordpress like me. haha. anyway. nice too meet you. i got your blog from google.
Very nice capacitor grouping!
Question: what is “sweet”? I can understand the clarity and definition is superior with the teflon capacitor, but I’m not quite “getting” what is superior with the better paper and oils. More 3d imaging? Better harmonic saturation?
The one capacitor that probably should have been included was the Jupiter condenser capacitor (..despite tempo electrics marginal rating). I wouldn’t be surprised if it was very similar to the paper tube Jensen copper while being about half the cost.
Here are some additional links:
Again, thank you very much for the testing!
It’s a little bit difficult to define “sweet” by word (perhaps due to my limited vocab in English). I think we can also use “warm” or “mellow” (but not “dull”), which you can “taste” the lips, tongue, even singer’s breathe when singing. I think this refers to better harmonic saturation also. Like comparing a 300B tube vocal vs solid state vocal. Perhaps with this you can understand what do I mean by “sweet”.
We can’t make a general assumption about all Paper-In-oil Caps, since not all of them have similar sound. Let’s say Audio Note vs Jensen Paper-In-Oil. Even they both same Paper-In-Oil, but Jensen has better high frequency tones, while perhaps Audio Note has even “sweeter” vocal. More different if you try Jensen Paper Tube or Duelund.
I have tried Jupiter once… but this caps had gone away long ago (I sold it to my friend). Perhaps just not my cup of tea. If I could recall my memory correctly, the tones of this Jupiter is between Audio Note Copper and Jensen “classic” Copper. To Jensen Paper Tube? I can’t confirm, but I don’t think so.
And as my caveat has been written, the result my subject to the listener preference. YMMV.
Thanks for the links.
Thank you for the reply Jimmy!
I can understand that 300B vs. solid state (..well, good solid state).
You could well be correct about the Jupiter capacitor. Note though that their materials/mechanical formulation has changed (..though for all I know it could be worse).
Anyway, again a big thank you!
(BTW, loved the use of the CD cases for the switch face-plate.)
Thanks for your comments.
I have moved your comments to here:
Just to make the discussion easier to be followed.
In reference to your recent cap comparisons. You should give the Claritycap ESA a try as a coupling cap. It doesn’t compare to Duelund of course, but it has a nice warm tone to it and is very affordable. They’re also very compact in size. For a little more transparency and a little more high end tilt, the Claritycap MR is also a great coupling cap. Both are also just as impressive in speaker crossovers.
Thanks for your information. Too bad when I bought all caps from PCX, they didnt carry ClarityCap. Here in my country (Indonesia), hardly to find a good caps. So I need to buy overseas. From your description, I think the ESA could be similar to Jensen. But if I could recall my brain correctly, the MR also quite expensive.
In the future, please post it here:
Not in this about page. Just to simplify the discussion.
dear jimmy, i hope you can help me with my problem. i own a konzert ks-8w subwoofer(this is the only sub i can afford)but unfortunately the toroidal transformer was burnt, i forgot the unit to turn off after listening a number of songs. it just stays on for almost one day. since in our place there was no support from konzert, so i opt to buy an ei type transformer since there is also no available toroidal transformer here. the rating of ei is 18v-0-18v, 3Amp. the rating of thr toroidal trans is 17.5v-0-17.5v, i don’t know the ampere rating but it has 220VA printed. now my problem comes in here, all relevant connection to the transformer was already done by soldering. but when i turn on the switch, the fuse would suddenly blow. i would replaced it again and still it would blow. what is supposed the problem? i hope you can find time answering me. i was really thankful i come across on your website. than you and god bless. eric
I happen to have a black plate RCA 12b4a NOS tube and 3 NOS 6bq5/EL84 tubes. Are you interested in them to purchase?
Hello Jimmy I’ve been reading your journal/articles/blog..? with great interest for some time. And now I’m looking to take advantage of your experience (mwahaha) *evil laugh*. Well, that is if you’ll allow it. I’m making psu for some nxV300 modules (aussieamplifiers) and aiming for 60-100k uf per channel, toroid +-500va (dual mono). I need advice on caps to use, they shouldn’t be ultra expensive, but they could be “a little expensive” if that give much improvement.
So, you have any good advice? (oh, and they should be about 100v 8-15k uf range)
You can try Jensen 4-pole.
halo pak jimmy, punya koleksi tube2 12at7 ecc81 801 dan 12bh7 gk? sy lg cari bbrp yg cocok. please email balik ya. tq
nicohansamu at gmail dot com
Tidak ada Pak.
Jimmy, can I get your comments on Mr. X’s RS241 amplifier? I’ve been looking to go for one, and I was interested in getting it made by tube lovers indonesia… pls email me at lindenpark at gmail dot com, thanks!!!
If you are on the way of 300B or 2A3, then this RS241 should be on the end of your journey.
pak jimmy nomor hp nya berapa ?
Untuk keperluan apa Pak?
iya pak minta no telp atau id ym atau msn nya deh…
pengen nanya2 componen or all about musick
Japri aja bro.
When are you going to give us your impressions of the new V-Cap compared to the old (ie the CuTF vs the TFTF?)
I think the CuTF has limited capacitance for now? If I could recall my brain correctly, the max capacitance is 0.33uF? While my TFTF is 0.47. Not really a nice comparison.
Jimmy (and anyone who can advice), i got a quite inappropriate question. As it is the only Indonesian site in the world I know, maybe you can give me a lead.
Dont’t you know some local site where I can buy some kilo’s of REAL PALM SAGO PEARLS? Maybe some on-line grossery or just discussion boards with English speaking people where I could order a bit of this.
Hopefully, it wasn’t too stupid 🙂
P.S. My Altec 5021 mod doing fine. Now building a tube hea-damp.
Hi Jimmy, i am one of your avid web site readers and i love to visit your web site. What do you think about the impamp? Do you have any idea for a small pre amp and recommendation for bookshelf speaker for it?
Never heard that one, so hardly to comment. But if some rumors on the diyaudio are correct, then this is a nice stuff.
No need preamp I believe, just with your source volume control (like PC Sound Card or iPod or CDP). Can try passive attenuator also.
For the speaker, I got no idea. Perhaps a DIY with 3″ like Tangband?
Thanks Jimmy for giving me hints of having a passive attenuator. I discovered a supplier
Any comment? I like to drive the mini tube amp with a cd player source. It looks like they need to know system spec before install the resistor.
My imp amp tube input have -20db consumer to +4db pro level adjustable trimmers.
By the way, the imp amp tube video is
Best regards and thanks
Plesae give us quoatation :
– Capasitor 8uF 1000 VAC
Qty : 6 pc
I’m sorry, I’m not a seller. You can try to find in local electronic shop or online shop.
Quite an exhaustive plethora of information here. Very impressed by your passion for electronics on the inside of the musical boxes, which actually makes or break the music.
AA) Jim, i need your feelers on Elma &/or Shallco switches. I have picked a Promitheus Signature 2 box TVC version. I have gone ahead with & in past have had experience of hearing a Shallco but never and Elma.
Could it be possible to share some details, if you have been able to compare them both ever.
BB) What possibly could be added to a TVC passive-pre to make it sound more huge in all possible respects. Considering we is being used for now it C-core transformer, Elma switches, copper plates etc. (You can avoid this question if its vague to reply back)
This is the only pic i could get of it – http://upload.review33.com/images/200905/200905232228539455.jpg (its a double box design housing a single C-core transformer)
Also, this one is theie reference version – http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?PHPSESSID=p788lnpq7pujjr9mv097i7bekoheu8ga&action=gallery;sa=view;id=20785 (This one is a single box dual-core variant with smaller c-cores into one)
Anyway, thanks for your time.
I think Shallco should be higher grade compared to Elma. Or you can go with Seiden for the ultimate one.
I think the problem with most TVC is with the output. I would suggest to add at least an active buffer circuit, not just the passive TVC circuit itself.
Or at least, you must know exactly to what device (its impedance spec) which match your TVC, to make sure your TVC will perform well with the device connected to its output.
Pak, minta ijin buat nyantumin blognya di tempatku ya..
Sir Jimmy, as you can see, after my mods i still come here for some advice/doubts ! you’re my source for audio knowledge.
So this time is : I’m thinking about creating a party for m friend etc and i was wondering if i could mix my sound system with my brothers.
So a computer would be the source of audio, then a creative xmod(pre amp), then the Altec lansing(amp) , then i would like to attach both my speakers and my brothers both in the same “slot” of altec lansing subwoofer.
this maybe it isnt possible but i would like to understand why, or what kind of criteria is used to calculate this stuff etc.
Any links for information is apreciated Jimmy
Thank you so much, big hug from Portugal : )
All you need is to buy a splitter. So from your x-mod, you can connect to your Altec and your brother’s speaker at the same time.
Let me know if what you need is different than my idea.
Sir Jimmy, your idea is the perfect one , i wonder why i didnt thought about it…..anyway my inicial idea was to conect both speakears, mine(2) and my bro(2), to the alte lansing sub….i understand its against the rules, but i want to know why.
By connecting all the speaker to Altec sub, I assume your idea is to have 2 speakers connected to the left output from Altec sub, and 2 speakers connected to right output from Altec sub, right? So you will have 4 speakers + 1 sub.
Btw, your brother’s speaker is passive or active one?
If your brother’s speaker is active one, definitely you shouldn’t do this. You should follow my previous suggestion.
If your brother’s speaker is passive one, you must check the total impedance first (your brother speaker + your Altec satellite). By combining two speakers on one output (from left or right channel), you must sum the total impedance of both speakers connected and see if they are still in range with the Altec’s amplifier output specification. Otherwise, you may damage Altec’s amplifier inside. But I also not suggest this way, unless you know what you are doing.
Hallo Pak Jimmy,
I’m so glad to have found your website (from Google). Very informative and inspiring 🙂
Would you kindly tell a bit about your system? I just started learning about the wonderful world of DIY, my system consists of modded Marantz CD94 transport outputting I2S to my DAC, custom TDA1541a double crown tube DAC, JLTi EL34 (http://www.customanalogue.com/jlti_el34.htm) with Telefunken PCC88 and Philips brown base double D getter, a pair of Quad 21L2 (to be upgraded to horns setup, either Axiom 80 or Tannoy HPD 385) and a pair of Altecs 515C.
I’ll be visiting Indonesia next month and I’m so keen to know about DIY world there. Thank you.
Hi Pak William,
Currently, I’m “building” my system. Most of the time before, I only put them on the desk, never ending experimenting from CDP to speaker. But now I’m starting to settle them one by one. Lot of funds been spent without a real result sometime makes me feel guilty. It takes time to settle down all these things, just enjoy it.
You have a nice setup. Do you visit ID for vacation or … ?
That’s correct Pak Jimmy, for vacation, been living in down under for a while, it’ll be my first time coming back to my home country after several years, really miss my family and friends there…
About building the system, well aren’t we all the same (I don’t have such expertise as yours though), I just started playing around with components such as Jensen, Duelund, Black Gate, military PIO caps, etc etc… Very true that we have to spend some hard earned cash to experiment things, I’ve been lucky enough to meet some people in here which got vast experience and expertise in this wonderful hifi world. Basically, I’ve been learning from them and I’ve also found my reference system here so I don’t have to waste so much money experimenting stuff.
I’m hoping to learn more and I would really like to meet DIYers, hifi and music lovers back in Indonesia. So if you happen to know any hifi clubs in Jakarta, would you please let me know? It would be great if we can keep in touch and someday meet up as well.
Have a good day.
Yes we have some local mailing-list for this audio and also have some local DIY gathering. You can join if you are interested, at [email protected].
If you are lucky enough, perhaps you can join our gathering (every 2-3 months usually).
Btw, where are you located now?
Hi Pak Jimmy,
Please contact me by email if you don’t mind, I am uncomfortable sharing my details on the net.
Thanks for the link, and yeah I would really love to join the gathering.
Hi Pak William,
Feel free to join the mailing list directly. Send empty email to [email protected]
See you there.
Hallo Pak Jimmy,
Saya ada masalah dengan meter tube tester, dimana bisa contact bapak? Email atau telepon. THanks
Saya sudah jawab via email.
jensen 470uf 450v sy minat pa trims
Silakan kontak saya via email ke [email protected]
Will you have a way to contact jason liu 劉英似?
Hi Jimmy – weird question out the blue from someone you never met. I been trying to find a local agent (I live in Cape Town) for Sanwa multimeters and failed – or even to find schematic on the Net. I see you use one… (you can see where this is going)…
Would you have a burst of shiny happy goodwill to open yours and tell me what the little pot is for the 0ohm adjust knob? I damaged mine, removed it to replace, then lost it :(((
It’s the YX360TRF…
Would -really- appreciate it…
I dont understand? What do you want to know?
Don’t worry, found the old bit and got a trim pot close enough in shape to bodge a plan.
I just wanted to know what the adjustment pot component was to find an equivalent.
But all fixed now.
Can you please send my email, tomcostigan (at) aol (dot) com, to Bill Eccher ? I would like to talk with him about a Hichok 539C tester. Thanks a ton.
All The Best !!
Sent to Bill. Maybe he will contact you shortly.
I’m living in Jakarta and keen to learn/build some dyi audio but I’m stuck finding shops to buy gear, parts etc. Can you recommend any?
btw, great site you have here.
You can start at Glodok, or some online shop around.
pak jimmy, mohon informasi kalau ada komunitas gainclone di semarang. mungkin pak Jimmy punya referensi. terima kasih
Halo Pak Denny,
Coba cek ke forum solfegio atau milis elpop-audio.
This is funny. Check out the pics. Duelunds resistor is nothing more than a 50 cent Faber Castel 5H pencil lead, which doesn’t even have much carbon in it. A 5B has more carbon. This is pure graphite and has no silver in it at all.
The pics can be found at the following website address. Apparently, this site won’t let me post a link so You’ll have to put in the www before it.
To be honest, I can see long time ago that they use graphite things inside the resistor (well everyone could see it inside the “bamboo” hole which covers the resistor). If you ever read Troel Gravesen website, he also ever mentions about the usage of such technique.
For this Duelund and Faber Castel things, I also have read around end of last year (or early this year). But I didn’t pay a lot of attention on it.
I have the standard and the CAST one. For the CAST one, as they “cast” it with something, so what’s inside probably not clear enough. But I assume they are the same materials, except additional casting process.
I bought them around $20 or less (on discount session I think, few years ago from PCX). For this amount, I think the cost is still reasonable. I’m not on Duelund side, but making the resistor (removing the wood from the Faber Castel without breaking the graphite is also not an easy job), then must connect it to the wire (which not solderable on the graphite side), make the bamboo cover, etc, probably won’t be easy if you do DIY. Even if I knew about this earlier, I prefer to spend $15-20 to buy the finished one, guarantee to work, and no risk. Sometime DIY also nice, but I’ve never DIY on component parts due to higher risk – yet.
Some other foil based resistor like S102 or the higher end model, TX2575, also quite pricey. I don’t think the raw material could be that expensive to.
You also can see thousand $$$ for a CD Player which based on CD-Pro2 which we know the cost is less than $1K or even less than 500$. Why don’t make by ourselves? Guido Tent from TentLabs also makes his DIY CD Player, but the price also not cheap. I think this is the “school fee” that we have to pay in order to respect their design and creation (and you just sit back, give your credit card number, and wait them to be delivered). If it sounds bad, definitely they will have bad reputation from the customer, sooner or later 🙂
So my opinion is, just take it or leave it. If you can make it better and cheaper, the market is wide open for you to do it 🙂 Perhaps somebody got idea with 5B and more carbon? Then do comparison with Duelund one, publish on DIYAudio, AA, Audiogon, etc? Why not? But as in most business does, if you can make it better, I’m quite sure you will sell it even more expensive, right? 🙂
pak jimmy kok bikin pcbnya bisa rapi begitu ya, mirip buatan pabrik. triknya gimana itu ? kalo berkenan boleh di share buat para pemula.
PCB yang mana nih?
Itu pak Jim, yang PCB tampil di artikel “AD1865 I2S Input PCB”. Sepertinya itu dual layer ya pak ?
Benar dual layer.
Post komen-nya di sana saja Pak, jangan di postingan “About”, supaya tidak bingung.
hello and good day to you jimmy, first of congrats you truly posses a talent very few have in this wonderfull art. Im new to the hobby and wish to make the best quality amp I possibly can not only because my tube amp recently passed away (effing light outs) but also since this will gount as my final proyect in college this semester lol so any help, schematics, pieces, parts, walkthroughs or simple support will be forever thanked. oh and a good question, can one build a 7.1 surround sound system based on single ended amps, preamps and power? with kind and warm regarths uour fan luis
What kind of amp that you have in mind?
‘a best amp’ wont hint us to something… 🙂
Can I burn-in a Mundorf SGO caps in a CD player by just playing the CDP without connecting the CDP to an amp?
Better if you connect it to the amp…
hi Jimmy – I am an expat in JKT and one of my Altec Lansing speakers not working – I think it’s the jack /wiring… getting that all too familiar ‘buzz’ sound – can you recommend a shop where I can take it get to repaired… I tried to take it apart but can’t find any screws!! (alamak!) looks like it’s molded one piece… I am sure a repair shop can sort it…..any suggestions???
Not quite sure if you can find a place to repair as you are an expat (mostly such places located in not to comfort area).
I enjoy reading your blog.
I have done upgrades to my speakers crossovers. Used Obbligato copper caps, and Janzten Cross cap in other speakers, replacing the Solen.
Ive been using a solder, i cant even find much information on the internet. Its Goot SF-A0410 (3% silver, 0.5%copper, rest tin). It dries super fast, components sound fine to me.
I am curious about Mundorf Suprememe with 9.5% silver content, you gave it a nice review. In the past, ive also used WBT-0800.
I start to switch to Mundorf Supreme for some application, but still have WBT around 250gram on hand… 🙂 Both are good…
I’m thinking of tweaking my Audible Illusions preamp’s power supply caps. It uses 2 4700 uf/50V and a 10,000 uf/10V. Seems have to use electrolytics given the large capacitance, even though I’ve heard that file and foil caps are better. What do you think of the Mundorf MLytic?
Any suggestion would be much appreciated.
There are several good brands electrolytic. Mundorf is one of them.
Film/Foil caps is not always better than electrolytic…
First of all hope you have a good 2012.
I’m one of the fans of your site. I’m wondering if you have 2 pcs of Black Gate 100uf+100uf 500V for sell.
Kindly let me know pls.
Yes I have some for my private use, but at this moment (also due to the market pricing out there), I dont think I will sell it.
Sorry. Have a good 2012 for you to.
Pak, pernah pengalaman reparasi CDP – Rotel RCD 1072? atau punya kontak service center nya?
kasusnya: tiba2 no disc. padahal tiap minggu masih rutin di-play.
Hi Pak Ryan,
Coba bawa ke tempat belinya saja. Mungkin mereka bisa bantu.
I was wondering which one of these 3 you choose for coupling caps in a tube amp: Clarity cap MR, V-cap cuTF, or Duelund Alexander.
I’m leaning towards either the V-cap or the Alexander. But I admit I’ve never heard either one, just read about them.
I would spend more for Duelund CAST 🙂
I would too, but both the funds and space in my amps are too limited. 😉
If you had to choose one (CC MR, V-cap cuTF, or Alexander) which would it be and why?
I dont think VCap is a cheap choice anyway? 🙂
Btw, it’s not easy to decide, as those three mostly in different league and I have no idea where you gonna put that and what is your preference in terms of the ‘music’ itself. Giving suggestion at this stage is merely a ‘guessing game’ and I dont think it’s a wise choice 🙂
I think I’ll probably spend more and step up to Duelund VSF.
The Vcap is much cheaper in my size (.22uF).
It depends on your system…
Hi Jimmy, your blog is truly very inspiring and informative. I like your work. I like to seek your advice regarding on cdp mod. My cdp power caps are 4700uf 25v. But if I change to 10000uf 25v, does it help to improve the sound quality? I not intending to change the clock or some drastic mods. My cdp is Marantz CD6000ose KI. Thanks for the help.
The important is to change with a better quality one. Size doesn’t really matter in here (at least not as main priority).
Hello everyone. kindly need your info.
what toroidal transformer type for altec mx5021?
thank you 🙂
As far as I know, MX5021 uses standard EI transformer, not Toroid. Also if I could recall my memory correctly, MX5021 needs two secondary windings with 2 different voltage. Maybe not easy to get toroid with that spec. Btw, it would be better if you post under MX5021 related entry, not on this “About” page 🙂
Hey Jimmy, I just recently got my brother’s MX5021. He told me he was having some problem with them and they don’t produce any sound. I anyways got them to check. I have no experience with speakers. I was just wondering if they can be repaired. The woofer is able to power up the control pod and the speakers but there is no sound. The satellites work fine when I connect them to some other player but they don’t work when connected to MX5021 woofer. I got the woofer checked with local electrician and he said all the internal wiring is fine. Any clue?
I believe your local electrician could have some skill checking electronics. So he would be the best guy you can find for good advise. Hard to “remotely” find the problem from here, but I suspect your amp chipset could have some problem.
selamat siang pak Jimmy….
Bisakah saya mendapatkan contact person bapak atau email bapak untuk pembicaraan tentang pembuatan article produk kami..
I’m a British expat living and working here, I have a passion in Audio mostly Theatre Systems however am building a 2 channel rig. Was wandering where are you located? I am located in Bintaro Sector 3 and would like join your events?
It would be very nice if you can join our even which we call GUYUB AUDIO BINTARO. Jimmy Auw is my (our) best friend, he is also my teacher for tweaking. You are most welcome to join on the next even on Sept 29, 2012 at my home : Jl. Titihan 2 HG12A/14, Bintaro Sektor 9 (just in front of “SEKOLAH JEPANG”). My email : [email protected].
Well, thank you Bung Jimmy !
The host of the event is Mr Didik Wiryawan. His home is not too far away from your place, I think.
hai bro jimmy,
saya minta email nya boleh ? mau tanya2 sedikit tentang modding car audio amp..
Kebetulan saya mau membuat integrated amplifier dengan minimal 3 input dan pre-out untuk subwoofer. Apakah ada rekomendasi paket lengkap dan dimana belinya ?
Hi Pak Anto,
Ini maksudnya paket lengkap barang jadi kah? Kalo seperti itu umumnya bisa didapat di amplifier integrated. Mereknya ada banyak macam, harga juga bervariasi sekitar 2jutaan ke atas biasanya.
Kalo rakitan, rasanya bisa cari di Glodok.
Numpang tanya. Saya mau mods JP200 versi analog metric.
Masih di perdebatkan capacitor mana yg baik utk electronics menurut Pak Jimmy
Jupiter HT or Ampohm Aluminium Foil?
Hi Pak Didit,
Tergantung karakter suara sekarang seperti apa dan karakter apa yang Anda suka nantinya.
Ada recomend tempat utk beli kit amplifier / pre-amp / PCB di daerah HARCO?
Cuma tau tempat Bowo Electronics sama Ayung.
Kalau tdk keberatan bisa PM saya ke email?
Hi Pak Didit,
Ya dua tempat itu yang paling lengkap kalo mencari kit yang cukup berkelas sih Pak.
Kalo yang pasaran, bisa ke Bogor (di arah belakang).
Nice blog, om Jimmy. Keep the great work up! 🙂
Thanks Mike. You have a nice one to.
Salaam Pak Jimmy yg terhormat,
Saya senang sekali membaca cerita2 Anda tentang elektronik dan alat suara yg audiophile. Anda pinter sekali dengan semuanya, tingkat cerita di blog ini tinggi sekali. Saya sedikit cemburu dengan alat audio yg high-end Anda punya 😉 Mungkin nanti saya bisa belinya juga, tapi saya harus bekerja keras dulu (saya masih muda, 26 tahun). Kalau saya di Indonesia lagi (mampir dgn pamanku), boleh saya mendengar system hi-end Anda? Saya ingin tahu sekali!
Hi Pak Roiko,
System saya biasa2 saja. Tidak ada yang istimewa. Karena hobi saya otak atik, maka kadang2 system saya tidak bisa bunyi karena keseringan dioprek dan oprekannya belum selesai. Kalo Bapak tertarik di bidang audio dan DIY ini, saran saya join ke milis [email protected] dan [email protected]. Keduanya cukup banyak diisi oleh DIY berpengalaman dan sering sharing berbagai hasil karya membernya. Kadang kita kumpul2 setiap beberapa bulan sekali sekedar untuk mendengarkan hasil oprekan. Saya masih tidak ada apa2nya dibandingkan member di milis tersebut. Oh ya, milis tersebut juga isinya orang Indonesia semua.
Jimmy, why no RSS on the blog? 🙁
Yes this blog support RSS, by default from WordPress. You can choose one of below link.
Are you interested in building power amp for other people?
I would like to, but unfortunately, I have no such experience (and time) to do so, at least at present time. Really sorry for that. I think you can build yourself and as usual, you can always ask me (if I can answer).
I work at a nuclear plant where we use the Sencore LC102 to test caps prior to installation. I have called the tech rep from the manufacturer but have received incomplete answers. Here are my questions. When checking leakage on a cap it gives you readings that flucuate between < 1 micro amp (bad) and then to 0000 (good). When do you really know if it is good or not? Same with dielectric absorbtion. It will read 1 or 2 and if you hold the button long enough it will read 0. It also flucates for ESR. Which reading is acceptable? If you can answer these questions it would be greatly appreciated.
Sorry, I have no idea. Sencore tech should be your best resort.
salam kenal mas jimmy,
sy boleh minta sarannya mas
sy mau buat speaker diy 2.1 yg setara logitech z623 atau hifi swan m50w, bisa dibantu mas,
komponen2 apa aja yg sy butuhkan dan driver2nya
Hi Mas Azuma,
Saran saya mending beli Logitech atau Swan-nya saja. Bikin sendiri belum tentu bisa lebih murah, dan risiko kegagalan yang tidak kecil.
oow gitu ya mas jimmy,
setidaknya sy bs minta saran untuk buat speaker 2.1 yg murah meriah mas jimmy terutama komponen2nya diluar speaker, krn sy sdh punya speaker LG bekas dvd player 5.1
Hi Mas Azuma,
Saran saya, beli saja speaker yang sudah jadi, macam Logitech atau Swan tadi. Nanti tinggal dioprek dikit. Kalo bikin dari nol, rasanya kerepotannya tidak begitu sebanding, kecuali mau bikin yang bagusan sekalian (which is cost-nya tidak akan murah).
om jimmy ada bengkel atau toko gak om?pengen mod speaker nih,,bisa di bantu gak om?tolong bales k email ya..thanks..
Maaf tidak ada. Saya hanya hobi saja. Kalo sekedar konsultasi by email, selama saya bisa bantu sih tidak masalah.
Newbie ingin up grade ic suara di naka mb9….
IC aslinya: 2100D JRC
Dengan features sbb:
-Single supply operation
-Operating Voltage (+/-1.0V – +/3.5V)
-Low saturation output voltage
-high slew rate (4V/us typ)
-Package Outline: DIP8
Mnrt Bro Jim IC apa yg bisa direct replace u up grade IC JRC tersebut?
pingin karakter yg analog,natural dan transparan.
Thanks Bro Jim…..
Hi Pak Marcos,
Sulit untuk menentukan replacement yang cocok jika tidak tahu karakter system secara keseluruhan.
Secara teknis, seharusnya kompatibilitasnya cukup banyak dan tidak masalah sih.
Ko Jimmy, mungkin pertanyaan w jauh dari masalah audio. Kalo mau belajar elektronika sampai gitu pandai seperti ko jimmy belajar dari mana aja ya? ada buku atau website rujukan? kalo berkenan w pengen ngobrol via email jg. Thanks ! 😀
Hi Bro Rudy,
Saya sama sekali jauh dari pandai. Masih perlu banyak belajar. Banyak yang jauh lebih jago dari saya.
Saya sendiri belajar dari buku, Internet, Youtube, dkk. Secara kamu bisa akses Internet, saya rasa kamu juga bisa belajar sendiri.
selamat malam pak Jimmy.
saya mau tanya nih capacitor jansen 0.47 uf 630v pio.
sepasang berapa y? dan bisa order kah ke pak jimmy.
I read your posts related to Altec Lansing MX5021 and saw that you made some tuning to the system. I have also an MX5021 for a couple of years and I loving it. The issue is that a couple of days ago the satellites go silent and only the subwoofer still make some sounds.
I wonder if your have the electrical diagram of the system and can share it with me. I don’t want to give up on him and I want to repair it if it’s possible.
If you can help me please use the email from the comment.
Unfortunately I dont have any schematic.
Saya tertarik dengan audio seperti anda, saya ingin mempelajari ini secara mendalam. Oleh karena itu saya ingin tahu tips untuk mempelajari elektronika secara mendalam dan mahir seperti anda. Can you tell me?
Hi Pak Mursid,
Saya tidak mahir2 amat, cuman tahu2 dikit saja.
Saran saya coba belajar dari buku atau Internet, atau join forum2 audio/diy. Dari situ saja kok. Kecuali Anda mau sekolah khusus elektronik. Itu lebih bagus lagi.
I have a General Radio Meter that I think needs repair. I have removed the meter from the unit. On the back side of the meter it has four terminals . I pair for an AC connection and the second pair for a DC connection.
I think that would be quite complicated to repair…
Hallo om Jimmy,
Sudah lama ga bersua nih. Saya sendiri sibuk ga sempet lagi main audio semenjak berumah tangga. Sementara ini hanya memanfaatkan yg sudah ada saja belum berfikir upgrade besar.
Bisa minta saran,
Quad 11L saya drive pake Arcam A85 player USB HifiMe DIY ESS Sabre via PC Desktop. sepertinya mati satu tweeternya.
Cari replacement nya sepertinya susah. Dulu pernah kena woofernya dan di upgrade oleh om Djon Welly.
Bisakah Anda memberi saran alternatif untuk mengganti tweeternya yang pas yang gampang ada di pasaran tentunya?
Apakah Vifa BC25TG15-04 1″ Textile harga 600rb cukup kah? Atau malah terlalu berlebih.
Ataukah alternatif lain yg ada di pasar yang lebih murah tapi cukup bagus sebagai pengganti?
Hi Pak Dodit,
Tidak disarankan untuk mengganti driver yang berbeda tanpa mengubah crossover. Atau dengan kata lain, sebaiknya gunakan tweeter aslinya (harus cari penggantinya).
Are you still stuck with your HP3561A?
What eprom and software version do you need? If i have the same version I can make a dump, you’ll need a blank chip and programmer to avoid sending stuff across the world.
My Onkyo SE-90 pci has a problem on one channel, audio is (almost completely) gone, if I turn volume way up, I still can hear the sound very faintly and distorted.
Other channel is fine, and it´s not the cables.
Any indication on what the problem might be is greatly appreciated,
It could be your opamp failed or your coupling caps. Need more detail check, though.
OK, I know where to start looking now, thank you !
bro jimmy, mo tanya nih, soundcard essence stx saya tiba2 suaranya hilang, habis volume saya besarin ternyata suaranya ada tapi pecah2 parah dan patah2, suara di headphone juga jadi sangat pelan sekali, opamp udah saya ganti baru dan ternyata masih sama aja, kira2 kerusakannya dimana ya bro? board saya liat seksama ga ada tanda2 kebakar dan soundcard masih terdeteksi dengan mudah di pc… mohon bantuannya ya bro jimmy… soundcard kesayangan soalnya… hix2 :'(
Maaf Bro baru bales. Agak susah problemnya untuk ditebak, harus benar2 ditrace problemnya dimana.
Pak mau nanya harga jensen 0.47 berapaan ya? Thanks
Hi pak Jimmy,bisa saya lihat rangkain skematik
just a question, do you think WE 274B and telefunken rgn 1054 rectifier can be interchangable?
I use at the moment EML 274B mesh plate but just a picture of mesh 1054 made me drooling…_)
Thanks a lot,
YTH Bpk Jimmy,
Salam kenal sebelumnya, nama saya Aldy. Mohon maaf pak saya mau bertanya, meminta referensi dari bpk. Saya punya sedikit koleksi home audio vintage/klasik. Nilai nominal dari amplifier2, speaker2 ini mungkin tdk seberapa, tapi berarti buat saya. Bpk bisa mereferensikan kontak/teman bapak yg punya kompetensi, idealnya seperti bpk tentunya, yang bisa di percaya, dan mau menservis, reparasi dan bahkan merestorasi perangkat2 audio vintage/klasik. Mohon reply dr bpk ke email saya. Tksh sebelumnya.
Hai Pak Jimmy,
Saya mohon saran bapak untuk service amplifer tabung , masalah yang timbul adalah bila power on langsung keluar suara mendesis.
I think they have different filament voltage.
Hi Pak Aldy,
Wah kalo barang klasik saya kurang tahu ya Pak. Kalo sekedar repair saya rasa ada beberapa kenalan.
Mesti dicek dulu sepertinya. Susah karena hiss bisa dari mana saja.
Hello Jimmy, please lets me know were to buy ATP Quantum Disc and Schumann Resonator.
The email should be there, on the article [email protected]
Hi, Jimmy, how does your ‘No Name’ Capacitor go? Have you finished your comparison test?
Is there any plan to go for mass production?
I am making a 8pcs PCM1704 DAC with [email protected] input. Is there any transformer facility can make digital audio transformer for I2S?
It might not go into mass production, I think.
bisa minta bantuan untuk trace (reverse-engineer) rangkaian dengan pcb dual layer?
ukuran pcb sekitar 4 x 6 cm, komponen smd.
kalau bisa, nanti saya kirim rangkaiannya dan biaya jasanya.
Terima kasih pak.
Your topic on “Inside Altec Lansing MX5021: Amplifier Mod” is the best article in the internet on how to modify the amp circuit.
I have a similar speaker system but has stopped working.
There is neither any sound from any satellite speakers nor from the sub woofer but noises come from only the right channel.
It would be a huge help if you tell where should I start to check for any faults, I cannot find any clue.
Waiting for your kind reply.
Maaf, website ini hanya hobby saya saja dan saya tidak/belum menerima jasa komersil.
Sending your speaker to local repairer would be best way.
I read your article: http://jimmyauw.com/2014/08/17/repairing-broken-tymphany-full-range-driver-p830985/
I have Nokia Play 360 which contain this speaker. I want to fix it. I posted the question here: http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-3505096/fix-nokia-play-360-speakers.html
Can you comment what should I do?
Mas jimmy untuk ramuan herbal yang untuk membersihkan pembuluh darah, seandainya langsung diminum satu sendok setiap pagi tanpa dicampur air hangat tidak apa apa kan ?
Trims jawaban nya ya mas .
Tidak apa-apa Pak.
Cn you share me 1x AD1865 i2s input decorder PCB, of course i will pay, thanks
I want “ATP Quantum Disc for Schumann Resonator”
How can I buy it?
How much is the price?
I am interested in “ATP Quantum Disc for Schumann Resonator”
How much is the price?
On your Korg MR-2000 articled you mentioned that there shouldn’t be any issue using a PATA-SATA convertor to upgrade the internal SSD to another disk.
My original hard drive failed, so I’m using a msata to 50 pin IDE adapter (the only one I could find) and a Samsung 860 evo drive. However I can’t get it to work. No matter how I format it, when I turn on the Korg I get an error saying the drive is not FAT32. I can then format it inside the Korg, but then it’s stuck on “working” and never actually formats. It doesn’t seem like the new drive/adapter are compatible with the Korg.
Would you have any tips I could use to make it work ?
first of all thank for your hard for your blog, very usefull.
For me is very intresting the testing of outer caps foil, may i ask you how to realize that measurement ?, step by spep…
thank you indeed.
What do you think of these Solen you mentioned in your post ?
I saw them mounted in a Zanden 6000 amplifier.
Any good ?
For future 845/211 project. Giant Solen MKP 51uF rated at 1500VDC!!!
It’s ok for its price level.
I am looking to purchase a state of the art mains power transformer for my DIY monoblock amplifiers. Currently, I have a Hammond power transformer which serves the output stage only (no filament, no driver stage). The problem is that the Hammond is buzzing mechanicallly and also has a 60 and 120 hz hum. So, hoping to find the highest quality mains power transformer 1780V @ 202mA for my GM70 tube output stage. Any thoughts on power transformers that you like / recommend?
How state of the art you are referring to?
I am looking for details/schematic, any relevant details to you 6N1P tube buffer, assuming you had success with it, or another updated design.
Jim kemana aje lu….
I’ve read your article about Jensen 4-pole capacitors and kindly ask you to share your opinion regarding sonic difference between Jensen and Mundorf electrolityc caps. I would like to replace BHC caps in my preamp and monoblocks (both solid state) but can’t make a decition because of lack of information. I have 2 options for preamp (I would like to try 4 – pole caps because of it’s filtering effect):
1. Jensen Capacitor 15000uF 63Vdc 4-Pole
2. Mundorf MLytic AG+ MLGO+ 22000uF 63VDC (4 pole)
And I have only one option for power amps (because of size) – Jensen Radial electrolytic capacitor with screw terminal 22000µF 63 VDC.
I will highly appreciate if you describe sonic difference between 1 and 2 vs BHC and also about Jensen for monoblocks. I’m especially looking for natural vocal and deep (but solid) bass.
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